Santander to Potosin (Spain)

Sorry folks for the delay in sending this passage report but we have been having problems with sending e-emails. The problems seam to switch between Orange and Tiscali. I don’t know which is worst!

Since arriving in Spain we have repeatedly been surprised by the beauty of the place, with the mountains and spectacular coastal scenery. It would provide an excellent place to drive through - if you like that sort of holiday.

6TH JUNE -SANTANDER

We had a day in port to recover from our crossing of Biscay. The marina was in a beautiful setting surrounded by mountains so we enjoyed a lazy day, the only problem was our generator battery was flat but Ray managed to jump start it from the engine battery. The problem remains unresolved in that the battery should be charged from the generator itself but isn’t. Help needed from the manufacturer perhaps?

7TH JUNE -SANTANDER TO GIJON

Left Santander for Gijon in slight mist hoping it would clear however as we left the river the fog got thicker and this remained with us until lunchtime. There was no wind and the sea was flat with a slight swell. Eventually the sun came out and we had enough wind to sail, but it didn't last and we lost the wind in the late afternoon and went through torrential rain and thunderstorms. The worst storm was as we were approaching Gijon where the rain was so heavy we lost visibility completely and had to stop as we knew there was a dredger and fishing boats in front of us. Once the rain stopped we made our way into harbour and tied up by 8.00p.m.. It was a pity the visibility was so poor today as the coastline (when we managed to see it) was quite spectacular.

8TH JUNE - GIJON

Yesterday we crossed from Cantabria into Asturias when we entered Gijon. We spent today exploring Gijon which was much bigger than we imagined, there was a lovely very long promenade along the beach (built courtesy of the EEC) which we walked along with all the Spanish families doing their usual parading.

9TH JUNE - GIJON - CUDILLERO - LUARCA

Today started with lovely blue skies, sunshine and just a light wind and calm seas with just a slight swell. The temperature rose steadily and the bathing costumes came out. We managed to sail for a short while but the wind was fickle and eventually had to resort to the engine. We slowly entered the harbour at Cudillero which has quite a tortuous narrow entrance but found there wasn't really any room for us to anchor so decided to continue to Luarca hoping to pick up a visitors mooring. We arrived at 4.30 but it took nearly an hour to get tied up as we had to pick up a mooring then blow up the dinghy to take a line to the harbour wall. Once tied up we went ashore to what is a very pleasant small town with a very active fishing fleet.
We have both been very impressed with this area, it is outstandingly beautiful with rugged mountains and steep cliff faces. There are numerous fine sandy beaches which were mostly deserted and backed by either rugged rocks or lush green trees.
We finished the day with a steak and a bottle of Rioja sitting in the cockpit watching the sun go down - this is the life!



10TH JUNE - LUARCA - RIBADEO

The skies were somewhat grey with the odd drop of rain, Ray spent the morning trying to sort out the problems we are having with e-mails, then after an early lunch we set off for Ribadeo in warmer weather and light winds. The wind piped up to force 5/6 and we had some roughish seas off one headland but the wind eased as we entered Ribadeo. We motored up river intending to anchor but decided there wasn't enough water so went into the harbour to tie up against the wall. We were directed to tie up against a French boat which we did fairly easily and were thankful for as it kept us off the wall. There were a couple of boats in we had met previously so we caught up with their news.
We walked up the steep hill into town and had a drink in the Plaza Espana, this was a very busy square filled with local families enjoying the evening sunshine, our drinks of 2 beers and a large glass of wine cost 2.5 Euros approx £1.75.
Ribadeo is the first of the Ria Altas and divides Asturias from Galicia. Where we first tried to anchor was extremely beautiful but the port is a typical small harbour with a mixture of small fishing boats and local craft. The town is very run down but there are some beautiful buildings but many are derelict which is a great shame as they would be wonderful if restored.
At 10.30 just as we were thinking of having a shower before bed 3 customs men arrived, they were very pleasant but what a time to visit

11TH JUNE - RIBADEO – RIA BAQUERO

The noise of workmen in the harbour at 7.00 a.m. woke us and as there was no chance of sleeping through it we decided to have breakfast and leave for Ria Baquero before low water. There was no wind and the sky was clearing as we left Ribadeo but the sky ahead looked very black and menacing as if we were going into either thick fog or a storm. Fortunately neither materialized although the weather was very changeable with some sunshine a slight shower but very warm.
We reached Ria Baquero and anchored in a beautiful spot ,the scenery was stunning, dark green steep sided mountains and small fine sandy coves, an ideal anchorage.

12TH JUNE – RIA BAQUERO – CEDEIRO

At 6.45 a.m. the wind started to increase so we quickly had breakfast and set off for Cedeiro, by which time the bay had become quite choppy with a strong head wind so we had to fight our way out. Once past the headland the sea was quite steep with a 2 to 3 metre swell, but by then the wind was behind us and we were able to sail with the Genoa for most of the way. The sun did get out for a while but there were very stormy skies over the mountains and unfortunately the clouds won and the day turned grey and misty.
The entrance to Cedeira was easy and we found good shelter in the bay so dropped our anchor which seemed to bite first time.
We took the dinghy ashore later in the afternoon after our siesta, it was just a short walk into town but everywhere was very quiet, we did some shopping and found Gordons Gin at 7 Euros a bottle and wine at ridiculous prices so we bought some to sample. Once back on board the wind increased and the skies cleared so we had a pleasant couple of hours in the late afternoon sunshine
Whilst we were sitting in the cockpit I thought I heard a gale warning in Spanish and as the wind was steadily increasing we decided to take the engine off the dinghy and stow the dinghy as we would only have worried over night.
Although still very windy we went to bed and slept until just after 1.00a.m. when the strength of the wind and our anchor snatching woke me. I got up and stood in the cockpit for an hour keeping anchor watch whilst the gale passed through. The boats in the harbour were dancing all over, there was almost a full moon and the clouds were scudding across the sky but it was very warm. Our anchor held even in the heaviest gusts and eventually I went to bed grateful that we had stowed the dinghy and engine, Ray mumbled as I got into bed and then went back to sleep.

FRIDAY 13TH JUNE - CEDEIRA – RIA DE ARES - LA CORUNA

We set off for Ria de Ares in the Bay of Coruna with bright skies and a light breeze. We hadn’t managed to get a forecast but it was less than thirty miles, but if I had realized before we left that it was Friday the 13th I might have hesitated about leaving.
I think we had every type of weather apart from snow, we had wind of force 6/7 which kept changing direction, heavy seas with 3 metre swell, some terrific thunderstorms and then as we rounded the headland into the bay the sky cleared and the sun came out.
The Bay Of Corunna is beautiful with 3 Rias meeting in the bay, we decided to head for Ares as this was where our Spanish friend from La Rochelle recommended.
It was a lovely quiet anchorage and the day became hotter as the wind died. We went ashore to find somewhere to eat but all we could find were small bars and the odd café so we settled for a drink and I had to cook again!
We are still having problems sending and receiving e-mails.
It continued hot and sticky and we were still sitting out at 11.00p.m. trying to cool off without much success.

SATURDAY 14TH JUNE – ARES – MARINA SADA – FONTINA

We motored in warm sunshine across the bay to Marina de Sada in order to clean the boat and do some washing. It is a very good marina we were met and our lines taken , facilities and security were excellent We spent most of the day cleaning and catching up on chores then we wandered up to town to find somewhere to eat in the evening We eventually went to a bar/restaurant recommended by Les and Cindy,, two Australians on their way to England. It didn’t look too wonderful and when we went in no one was eating, however Isabel the barmaid spoke good English and said they served food and would we like a plate of mixed fish with salad and fries. The food was excellent, washed down with a bottle of Ribeiro (the local wine), then chocolate mousse and coffee.
By this time the place was packed with locals we were the only tourists there until Les and Cindy joined us for a drink. They were a very interesting couple, they have lived aboard their boat for 9 years and gave us some anchorages for on the way down to the med, they also recommend that we take our time particularly around the Algarve.

SUNDAY 15TH JUNE

Today was Fathers day and we both forgot until we received text messages from the boys. All in all it was a lazy day doing very little except for a short walk in the afternoon but we didn’t go far as it was too hot and we ended up in the marina bar. In the evening we perused the charts as we planned on leaving tomorrow after we have filled up with diesel and water and I have been to the supermarket again!

MONDAY 16TH JUNE – MARINA DE SADA – CORME

A damp and foggy morning, after filling up etc we left the marina at 10.30 and headed for Corme, by this time the weather had deteriorated and it was drizzling and visibility was very poor, the wind was on the nose so we motored out of the bay of Coruna.
Eventually the mist lifted and the sun came out and we had a gorgeous afternoon of blue skies and sunshine with just a light wind, we managed to sail the last few miles and arrived at Corme at 5.00p.m.
Corme is a lovely little place and we anchored off one of the beaches which were quite busy considering it was Monday.

TUESDAY 17TH JUNE – CORME – PORTO SIN - ROUND CAPE FINISTERRE

We got up at 6.00a.m. so that we could get an early start as the forecast was for the wind to increase later in the day. We left Corme in cloudy but warm weather and a flat sea.
The wind increased as the morning progressed and there was quite a swell running but nothing uncomfortable. We rounded Cape Finisterre, another landmark I am pleased to have passed, the sea was quite confused off the headland with huge swells which pushed the boat along at over 8 knots, I would hate to see it in rough conditions.
We made excellent progress and the sun came out as we entered the Ria Muros and headed for Porto Sin by which time there was quite a strong wind blowing.
The club Nautico bar and restaurant are lovely and very reasonable with good facilities.
We walked up to town to see where the bus stops for Santiago de Compostela but we didn’t find it, however I managed to obtain a timetable and information from the Capitania so that is where we will go tomorrow.

WEDNESDAY 18TH JUNE - SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

We awoke to beautiful blue skies and sunshine which we were pleased about as it would make our trip more enjoyable. We caught the 9.30 bus to Noia which arrived at 9.45, we then changed buses at Noia to take us to Santiago. Fortunately the 10 0 clock bus waited for us otherwise we would have had to wait for an hour for the next bus.The journey took about 45 minutes through the mountains, apart from the driving it was a lovely journey.
The mediaeval center of Santiago is very beautiful and the cathedral in particular is spectacular, it is very reminiscent of Sienna and San Gimigniano. We spent a couple of hours just exploring the narrow cobbled streets, fortunately it wasn’t crowded which I suppose it will be in a couple of weeks when the holiday season gets under way. We stopped for a pleasant lunch, sitting outside in the shade after which we then visited the cathedral which houses the remains of St James the Apostle and attracts many pilgrims.
We then wandered back through the narrow streets to the bus station to catch our bus back to Noia. All in all a memorable day.

THURSDAY 19TH JUNE - PORTOSIN

We are still in Portosin as the wind increased to force 7 and we didn’t fancy the idea of being at anchor, so another day of chores although we had to give up at lunch time as it has been so hot – 38 degrees in the shade ! Hopefully we will be on the move again tomorrow.


That’s all for now, and let’s hope the e-mail gets through to you before too long. We are both well, getting sun tanned and generally enjoying life. We hope you are also keeping well – and working hard!

Ray and Sandra

Stratagem
19th June 2003