As predicted the wind howled through the night and was still blowing strong in the morning so we decided to stay put. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky so before it became too hot we started polishing the topsides of the boat (these jobs unfortunately have to be done), by mid-day it was scorching so we stopped working and tackled some stowage problems we had below.
It was so hot by 1.30p.m. that we ate lunch inside as it was impossible to sit outside, after clearing up I gave up and just lay on the bed with all the hatches open to get a flow of air through the boat. Ray went up to the bar to see if it was cooler in there, apparently it was 38o in the shade, the locals said this was extremely unusual for this time of year – no wonder I was feeling distressed.
We both felt better after a cool shower but it didn’t last, by the time we had strolled up to the clubhouse to eat we were feeling hot and sticky again. Our meal wasn’t the most memorable although the clams were good, however the setting was magnificent as we watched the sun go down over the mountains, the only downside was that it was still 31o at 10.30p.m.
We sat out in the cockpit trying to cool off until 1.00a.m. but gave up just as a breeze came up this eventually turned into the forecast force 7 but we were grateful for the cooler air through the boat. We thought about the Dutch couple who had left for Falmouth and hoped they were O.K.
FRIDAY 20TH JUNE - PORTOSIN – RIANJO RIA D’AROSA
Today was a truly memorable day although it started rather mundanely when the Dutch couple returning from their abortive attempt to head north woke us. They had encountered huge seas and eventually made the decision to turn back. They both looked exhausted and admitted it had been quite scary, once tied up they went straight to bed.
We had breakfast and walked up to the village for fresh bread etc and then left Portosin heading for the Ria d’Arosa, which is the largest of the Ria Bajas and goes deep into the Spanish countryside.
Shortly after leaving port we saw a large school of dolphins, probably around 30 or so, they approached the boat and we identified them as bottle nosed dolphins, the adults were the largest we have ever seen. The adults took it in turns to just lean against the bow of the boat enjoying the bow wave and then it would roll over before speeding off to the side to let the next one take its place. Whilst they were waiting their turn they were arching out of the water and clearing their blowholes right alongside the boat.
The juveniles which didn’t come in quite as close were leaping right out of the water doing somersaults just a few feet away putting on a show just for us. Although we have had dolphins swimming with us many times in the past this was the most magical as the sea was so calm and clear in the Ria that we could see them clearly alongside the boat and even hear them talking to each other.
We criss crossed the Ria and they stayed with us for over 15 minutes but left us as we headed out to sea.
We managed to sail part of the way but eventually what wind we had was on the nose (again) so we turned on the engine. We did try to ghost up the Ria but as we weren’t making any progress the engine went back on again.
We had planned to anchor off an island by Villa Garcia but there were so many viveros (these are large wooden rafts used for cultivating mussels) we altered course and anchored in a beautiful spot off the beach at Rianjo.
We had a very late meal as it was so hot and then sat in the cockpit waiting for the temperature to drop whilst the sea became like a mirror, it was a truly peaceful idyllic spot and the dolphins had made it a truly memorable day.
SATURDAY 21ST JUNE - RIANJO - BAYONA
Today is our grand daughter Stephanie’s birthday and if there is any downside to our cruising life it is on occasions like this when we cannot share the day, a phone call isn’t quite the same, still they will be joining us for two weeks in August.
The day dawned with warm sunshine and hazy blue skies but absolutely no wind. We left Rianjo after breakfast and motored down the Ria expecting to pick up some wind, but it was flat calm and still with poor visibility.
We headed for the Ensenada de barra in the bay of Bayona where we dropped anchor and had a lazy lunch. We then tried to sail across the bay and ghosted for a few hours as we felt it would be cooler at sea. The scenery was absolutely wonderful around the Islas de Ciels and the Ria Vigo. Eventually we gave up and switched the engine on and motored into Bayona where we dropped anchor just off the town. We went ashore but unfortunately we had trouble with the dinghy engine (dirty petrol, we think).
The old part of Bayona is very picturesque so we stopped and had a drink in the cool shady streets, it was still very hot but at least when back on board the cockpit was in the shade.
SUNDAY 22ND JUNE - BAYONA
We decided to spend the day exploring Bayona, however the day dawned foggy and very damp so we had a long lazy breakfast and then did some planning for our next ports of call – Portugal will be our next stop. The fog lifted by late morning so we took the dinghy ashore and enjoyed a beautiful walk around the Castello de Mont Real whose mediaeval walls surround the parador Conde de Gondomar.
After browsing around the local bars and restaurants we decided to have a drink at a tapas bar, we decided to have some tapas as our first course before going to a fish restaurant for our main meal. The tapas were great and came with wonderful crusty bread, Galicia is said to have the best bread in the whole of Spain and I can believe it. The tapas bars were mostly filled with men and some were extremely noisy with huge hams and sausages of every description hanging from the ceiling and counters with cheeses and pates plus all the other local specialities, it all created a great atmosphere.
We then went to the fish restaurant we had seen earlier and just got there in time as by the time we were seated and served our wine and yet more bread there was a queue for tables, we had obviously chosen well as nearby restaurants weren’t nearly as busy.
We had a plate of grilled fish and shellfish for two people and there was just so much of it we had to give up in the end. It would have been interesting to know what fish we were eating but it all tasted great so who cares especially when washed down with a local Ribeiro wine.
Naturally after all that exercise and food (not to mention the wine) it was back to the boat for a siesta.
At around 10.30p.m. there were some terrific bangs and at first we thought it was the range firing again but then realised it was fireworks from the harbour, we watched these for about 15 minutes, which was followed by horns blaring and sounds of celebration in the town. At 11.00 o clock we had another firework display from the town across the bay, obviously it was some fiesta which we knew nothing about.
We enjoyed our time ashore Bayona is a lovely place particularly the old town, with sufficient locals to create a great atmosphere.
MONDAY 23RD JUNE
We heard the 8.30 forecast from Finisterre which was North or North East 4 or 5, sea state slight to moderate, visibility poor. As the wind would be behind us we headed for our first port in Portugal, Viana Do Castelo.
We left the harbour in flat calm with just a whisper of a breeze. We had to avoid a circle of small boats, which were tied together, and hauling in a huge net, obviously after the sardines we had seen in the water last night.
Once out beyond the breakwater there was a 2 to 3 metre swell so obviously there had been some strong winds out in the Atlantic. The wind picked up slightly but not enough to stop the main gibing in the strong swell so we had to sheet in the main and motor sail.
We entered Portuguese waters at just after mid-day when we crossed the Rio Minho so we lowered the Spanish courtesy flag and raised our Portuguese flag for the first time. We also needed to put our clocks and watches back an hour as Portugal is on the same time as B.S.T.
We arrived in Viana Do Costelo at 2.00p.m. the marina was yet another bows to with pick up lines but no finger pontoons, mooring can be difficult but we managed O.K. as we slipped between a motor boat and a yacht.
We celebrated our arrival in Portugal with lunch and a bottle of wine, after which we went to the marina office to fill in all the forms necessary as new arrivals in Portugal. Fortunately the girl in the office spoke English as whilst I can get by in Spanish my Portuguese is non-existent and I understand they are offended if you use Spanish even though the languages are very similar.
We wandered along a lovely shady tree lined esplanade and then turned into the old town, which is lovely with narrow stone lined streets which were free from cars.
Once back at the marina I couldn’t get back on board as we had moored bows to and it is too high for me to climb on board so Ray had to bring the dinghy to the front of the boat and then pull me to the stern so I could get on board.
We decided to stay in Viana for another day, as it is so pretty.
TUESDAY 24TH JUNE
A
A cloudy cooler day we bought some aluminium steps so I can get on board when we are moored bows to and spent the day exploring Viana and lazing around.
WEDNESDAY 25TH JUNE
It was slightly brighter this morning when we set off for Leixos, there was just a slight swell and a light wind from the North, we were able to raise the main in the harbour and then unfurl the Genoa as we headed south. Eventually the swell was causing the main to gybe so we motor sailed with just a full genoa.
The sky cleared and the sun shone again which was lovely after yesterday’s gloomy day.
We arrived in Leixos and were directed to a berth and our lines taken which was very helpful. The girl in the marina spoke excellent English and gave us lots of information about getting to Porto.
We walked up to the post office and supermarket, the town is uninspiring although we didn’t go to the area where the bars and restaurants are.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As most of you are aware we have been without the facility to send E-mails for almost two months so instead of the more detailed passage reports I have summarised the journey.
THURSDAY 26TH JUNE
We visited Porto on the local bus from Leixos, we headed for the old town which runs to the river Douro, thee streets are extremely steep and cobbled; they obviously hadn’t changed for hundreds of years. I thought the area was very atmospheric but Ray thought it was a ghetto.
We didn’t visit the port lodges as we felt good port would not keep well on a heeling boat. We did however visit the cathedral and the area just above the old town where there were some beautiful buildings many of which were tiled with blue and white tiles depicting various scenes.
FRIDAY 27TH JUNE – FIGUEIRA DE FOZ
Sailed to Figueira the wind started light but increased by lunchtime and with it the swell so we had quite a roly sail for the last three hours and by the time we entered the harbour it was gusting 30 knots so we were pleased to get in, although mooring was not so easy due to the wind.
Figueira is a very pleasant town with a wonderful beach and good restaurant area. The marina was full of tiny fish (baby sardines) it really did look like fish soup.
We sailed from Figueira to Nazare in fairly light winds but with a high swell off our beam, which made it very uncomfortable, the only consolation was that it was warm and we had the tide with us.
We decided to hire a car and do some sightseeing for a couple of days as the forecast wasn’t too good and there were some interesting places I wanted to visit.
We visited Alcobaca which has a beautiful monastery; we were fortunate to hear the end of a service. We wandered round the cloisters, refectory and kitchens, it really was stunning. We also managed to see the tombs of King Pedro 1 and his wife Ines de Castro said to immortalise Portugal’s greatest love story
We then visited Batalha, the cathedral and monastery are enormous and very impressive from outside and even more impressive inside, the most beautiful part being the Copelas Imperfeltas (the unfinished chapels). The carvings were fantastic and as it was open to the sky it seemed more beautiful, the tomb of the Unknown Soldier is always guarded by two motionless men in uniform which made it quite moving.
We then motored to the Mira de Aire where there is a complex of caves. The road was tortuous through the mountains but the caves were well worth the journey, we returned to Nazare having had an extremely enjoyable if tiring day.
The next day in much better weather we decided to visit Obidos a 12th century village surrounded by walls. It was a lovely village with something to see around every corner of the wonderful cobbled streets with buildings covered in cascades of bougainvillea and wisteria. We walked around a short part of the walls but I chickened out once the surface became rough and narrow.
During the evening we took the funicular up to Sitio de Nazare and enjoyed the view except for the sight of the extremely rough seas. There has been a strong southwest wind today and the sea is very rough so we will not be leaving tomorrow as planned, as it will take a while for the swell to subside.
1ST JULY
The start of another month dawned bright and sunny although there was little wind the seas are still rough so a day of chores and lazing around
WEDNESDAY 2ND JULY
Today is our grandson Andrews birthday and missing his celebration is one of the downsides of our lifestyle.
We left Nazare for Cascais, it was a lovely day with a slight swell and the wind from the west so we were able to set both sails. We had a great journey as far as Cabo de Roca but then the swell which was 2 to 3 metres went abaft the beam and the sea became more confused off the Cabo making it uncomfortable. We were pleased to reach Cascais in the early evening and even more pleased to be met by marineros who took our lines.
Cascais is at the mouth of the river Tagus and is just outside Lisbon which is a 20-minute train journey from the port but it is also close to Sintra a beautiful small town which we will visit tomorrow.
THURSDAY 3RD JULY
We caught a bus which took us through numerous towns and villages on the climb up to Sintra. We found our way to the old town and visited the National Palace of Sintra which had some exquisite rooms with marvellous ceilings. After a lazy lunch we visited the Castilo de Mouros an 8th century Moorish castle with wonderful views. We then visited the Palace de Plena this is a Walt Disney like creation built in the early 1800s and used by the royal family until 1910. It is in a beautiful position with stunning views all round the countryside and far out to sea. The building was a real mish mash of styles and so was the furniture.
Whilst we enjoyed the day sightseeing a lot of time was spent waiting for buses and travelling which made it a tiring day.
FRIDAY 4TH JULY
We left Cascais at 9.00a.m. in bright sunshine and no cloud and headed for Sines, the forecast was for increasing wind from the North. We pulled out the main in the bay but it jammed and after a number of attempts we gave up and unfurled the genoa. The wind steadily increased as did the swell and we had a good force 5 behind us and a strong swell on our stern it was like riding a roller coaster as the waves picked up the boat like a cork and pushed her forward.
We made excellent progress doing 57 miles in 7 hours, but I was glad to get into port and even more relieved when we were met by 2 marineroes as the wind was very gusty in the harbour. Once tied up and the formalities completed we enjoyed a well-earned drink.
We spent the next day lazing around and exploring Sines which is a very pretty traditional small Portuguese town.
We had a pleasant evening with some friends we have met on our journey.
The following day followed in a similar vein apart from watching some of the Portuguese motor boats coming in to berth, it was better than TV. the final straw was when one chap took his trunks off and wandered about his boat in just his T shirt.
We are hoping for a very early start tomorrow to get to Cabo San Vicente before the wind becomes too strong and the swell too rough as the pattern of the last few days has been for the wind to increase by lunchtime and become very strong in the afternoon with the accompanying increased swell.
MONDAY 7TH JULY
After a sleepless night listening to the wind moaning through the rigging, we got up at 5.30 for our passage around Cabo San Vicente. The wind had died and it was just light as we left the harbour, the sky was clear and the sun was just coming over the horizon.
Once out of the harbour we unfurled the main to steady the boat in the ever-present swell. We motor sailed changing the main for the genoa as the wind filled in from behind us. Visibility was poor approx 2 miles and we lost sight of land for a large part of the journey until the high rugged cliffs of San Vicente came into view. The swell increased and was more confused as we reached the cape but the boat handled well.
We dipped our ensign to St Vincent at 1.30p.m. as we rounded the corner, this is a tradition of all sailors as St Vincent is the patron saint of sailors.
Within 30 minutes of rounding the cape the sea was flat and the wind off the land was hot, at long last we were able to switch off the engine and sail.
I must admit it was wonderful to be out of the ever-present Atlantic swell which had been with us for most of our journey. This was what we had travelled south for, calm seas and warm winds; we opened a bottle to celebrate.
The wind eventually died and we had to start the engine as we approached Lagos, the coastline was fantastic, the typical Portuguese postcard scenes of caves carved out of cliffs, wonderful rock formations and fabulous beaches. This was very different from the Atlantic coast with its long stretches of beach backed by sand dunes and pine forests.
We entered Lagos at 4.30p.m. , the marina is very luxurious- real marble halls, surrounded by shops and bars plus an apartment and hotel complex however the downside is one has to pay for such amenities and this was the most expensive marina we have been in so far.
We met up with 2 boats who had left Sines this morning and then wandered round the old town before having a celebratory meal to commemorate what is in effect the end of our passage, we will now slowly head for Gibraltar.
We spent the next few days exploring Lagos and trying to cope with the intense heat, we also managed to put the bimini up to provide some much needed shade.
WEDNESDAY 9TH JULY
A very hot day with little wind but we unfurled the genoa and ghosted to Alvor which is an anchorage in a pool behind some sand dunes just a few miles from Lagos. The plan was to follow another boat with a shallower draft at low water (when we could see the sandbanks) up to the pool off the town.
Just before low water we set off up the channel but it quickly became apparent that we weren’t going to have enough depth of water, the channel was supposed to be dredged to 2 metres and there should have been another metre above datum at low water but we barely had 2m and as thee channel wasn’t buoyed we turned tail and headed for the anchorage at Porto Mao 4miles further east.
We unfurled the genoa and sailed gently along the stunning coastline – it really is fabulous with wonderful beaches and fantastic rock formations, unfortunately it is becoming very developed with hotels and apartments.
We passed Praia de Rocha and entered the breakwaters at Porto Mao, we dropped anchor in a very pretty bay and sat outside until after 10.00p.m. watching a wonderful sunset, the colours behind the town were magnificent. Thee only downside of the anchorage is when a fishing boat goes out full pelt they do create a swell but that is a small inconvenience compared to the charm of the anchorage.
THURSDAY 10TH JULY
The day was again hot and sunny and the wind increased sufficiently for us to have a lovely gentle sail to Olahoa, but then the wind died again and the sea went like glass so we were back to the engine.
There were strong overfalls off the entrance but we gunned the engine and managed to get in o.k. although it was the last of the ebb the tide was still running strongly.
The channel is tortuous through sandbanks but we managed to plot our way to the pool where we wished to anchor which was a very pleasant spot to spend the night.
FRIDAY 11TH JULY
We had a phone call at 2.00a.m. to say our alarm had been activated at home, when we rang back I got the answering service so assumed they had contacted our key holder service, it is all a bit worrying when you are so far away.
We were up at 6.00a.m. to take the last of the ebb out of the river, again the day was cloudless and hot but at least there was a breeze and we were able to sail most of the way to Ayamonte although we did have to gun the engine once to avoid an area of huge tuna nets. We took the last of the flood into Ayamonte and radioed for a berth but the marina was full so we anchored and waited for the tide to fall so we could pass under the suspension bridge to go up river which is the border between Spain and Portugal., the problem was which flag to fly.
At 5.00p.m. Ray thought we should have enough clearance, it was touch and go, as we crept under we had some heart stopping moments, it looked like we had very little clearance but it is hard to tell even with binoculars on the aerial. The problem was the pilot book said the bridge was reported to have about 20m clearance at high water and about 22m at low, as we have 18m plus aerials we were pretty close.
Once through the bridge we ghosted up the river through beautiful scenery, it was so peaceful and the birds were amazing, we saw storks, herons and birds we didn’t recognise. The area is totally unspoilt with just a few small villages some of which have free pontoons and mooring buoys. We tied up to a pontoon at Foz de Odeleite it was a lovely tranquil place. We wandered round the village but couldn’t find a bar, there were lots of derelict houses but a large number had been or were in the process of being restored, it was really pretty with stunning views. I think time has stood still in this area, it was wonderful to see an old man riding a donkey towing a couple of goats on leads.
We sat in the cockpit waiting for the temperature to drop and as I write this the temperature in the boat is 86 degrees even with every hatch open, not a lot of sleep tonight.
SATURDAY 12TH JULY
We had a lovely quiet night and after a lazy start we headed for Alcoutim about 18 miles upriver, it was glorious journey, the Spanish side of the river is virtually uninhabited but there are a number of small villages on the Portuguese side, it is very rural and hilly with lots of goats roaming the hillside and lots of birds.
We reached Alcoutim and picked up a visitors mooring for which we are grateful as the tides are very strong and we are on the top of springs. We took the dinghy ashore and explored Alcoutim there were 2 or 3 bars and a restaurant plus a castle. We also crossed over to Sanlucar on the Spanish side but there was even less to explore there besides which it was too hot to do much. There are hill top castles at both villages but it was just too hot to make the climb so we didn’t visit them.
We found a restaurant, as it was far too hot to cook on board even though there has been a breeze on the river, we had a lovely meal with a nice bottle of wine and coffee for 30E.
As we sat waiting for the temperature to drop we noticed that the river seems quite polluted as there have been quite a lot of dead fish around, we don’t know why but obviously this is not a good sign and needless to say we didn’t eat fish tonight.
SUNDAY 13TH JULY
Another beautiful day and after completing one or two jobs around the boat and a lazy lunch followed by a siesta we headed back downriver to Foz de Odeleite, to lie alongside the pontoon. It was still hot but as the sun went down the air became much cooler, not nearly as hot as previous nights thank goodness.
MONDAY 14TH JULY
We left at 8.30 to take the last of the ebb under the bridge to Ayamonte, we passed under without a hitch but it still seemed close. The marina was still full so we anchored in the river, the wind became quite blustery but our anchor held well. We did some reorganising ready for our visitors at the end of the month but generally had a lazy day.
This will be our 6th night at anchor and I must admit we could do with some time ashore plus some fresh supplies.
TUESDAY 15TH JULY
Up very early to take the ebb out of the river, it was still dark, there was little wind and the sun rose as we went down the river. There were lots of fishing boats in the mouth of the river making life difficult as usual.
Once out of the river we unfurled the genoa and headed for Mazagon some 30 miles East. The weather coming in from the northwest looked decidedly stormy and at one stage as a front went over the wind changed suddenly by 90o and increased to the top of force 5.
We reached Mazagon and thankfully arranged a berth in the marina and then went ashore for some supplies but didn’t get any as the supermarket was shut. fresh and frozen supplies are now very low soon it will be tinned food!
WEDNESDAY 16TH JULY
I was up most of the night with an upset stomach so felt pretty drained and washed out this morning. It was another sunny cloudless day We set off for Chipiona and we were able to unfurl the genoa but eventually the wind died and we had to motor.
We reached Chipiona at low water and we just nudged the bottom as we entered the marina.
As we were having lunch a flotilla of fishing boats came in all dressed with flags and the largest carrying a statue of the Madonna, they buzzed around all afternoon with more and more coming into the harbour with lots of blowing of horns and clapping etc.
We went ashore to look for a supermarket, the town was very pleasant but a bit dirty, but at least we managed to get some fresh supplies.
Once back on board we watched the build up for the final procession out to sea when they took the Madonna to bless the seas before returning her to the harbour and back to the church. We later found out the statue was of Santa Maria the Virgin but is in honour of the Lady of Mount Carmel and she is carried out to sea to bless the waters and protect seafarers. The festival takes place all along the coast
We ate out at a lovely fish restaurant overlooking the marina and then watched a great firework display which rounded off the festivities.
THURSDAY 17TH JULY
After a very windy night the day dawned quiet and sunny, we left Chipiona after breakfast and headed for Rota, the seas for the first few miles had quite a large swell due to last nights winds but they eventually flattened and it was fairly calm as we motored into the marina. We met a couple who have been cruising for the last 5 years and they have overwintered in Lagos for the past 2.
After showering we wandered around the old town which was very pleasant and had a lovely meal in the old square.
FRIDAY 18TH JULY
Another hot start to the day with cloudless skies and no wind. We caught a bus to Puerto Santa Maria; the journey took half an hour through fairly flat uninteresting countryside. We arrived at the plaza de Torros where the bullring is in the centre but it seemed to be closed although my guidebook said it should be open. We walked past the bodegas where the sherry is stored but didn’t do a tour, as we would have had to book to join an English-speaking group tour.
Santa Maria is a lovely town with some interesting old buildings, unfortunately the castle was closed for restoration work but we did eventually manage to get into the bullring.
It was quite an incredible building and holds some 12,000 spectators on very uncomfortable stone seats cushions definitely needed, it was also extremely hot and airless. They still hold bullfights there every week.
We had an excellent tapas lunch near the castle, I’m not sure what some of it was but it was good. We then wandered back through the deserted streets to catch our bus back to Rota.
SATURDAY 19TH JULY
Another sunny morning with just a light breeze, we slipped our mooring just after 8.00.a.m. to head for Barbate our final stop before Gibraltar. A number of boats seemed to be heading in the same direction – all motor sailing. The swell was pretty horrible in the Bay of Cadiz; it was on the beam which is not a comfortable motion on a boat. The sails were in and out as the wind was so fluky, it eventually died altogether and we motored the rest of the way trying to avoid tuna nets.
We passed Cabo Trafalgar scene of Nelsons famous victory before turning and heading into Barbate where there was a tuna net from miles offshore to just a few yards from the entrance. Marineroes took our lines but were pretty incompetent and then we went through the usual form filling.
The temperature soared and we just tried to stay cool, the marina is pretty run down and scruffy and flies plagued us all evening. We ate on board but it was terribly hot so not really enjoyable, plus we had to eat inside because of the flies which made it worse. We saw some huge tuna brought in by the game boats and craned onto a lorry after the obligatory photographs, but all in all the worst place we have been to and we will be glad to leave tomorrow.
SUNDAY 20TH JULY
Up early (yet again) to catch the east flowing tide to take us to Gibraltar, we left in absolute flat calm with just a slight swell, Silk Sheets a boat we have sailed with since Sines left at the same time. We motored towards Tarifa and Morocco quickly came into view as it is very mountainous. We were able to unfurl the genoa and roared along at 8 knots plus a two knot tide, it became quite choppy off Tarifa which is known as the windiest spot in Europe and they certainly make use of it, I’ve never seen so many wind turbines, there were forests of them.
Once we rounded Tarifa the sea calmed slightly but the wind had increased and we had a good force 5.
Gibraltar came into view and it was fantastic sailing with Africa to starboard, Europe to port and Gibraltar straight ahead. The last part of the journey was slower as we avoided the very fast moving ferries which ply between Morocco and Gibraltar.
We entered the harbour just on mid-day and had to tie to the custom quay to await clearance from customs and immigration, normally the marina would just fax the information but with heightened security each boat is visited. Security has certainly been heightened, as there was a message on V.H.F. to say that all boats must keep a 500-metre distance from NATO convoys and any boat approaching and not identifying themselves would be considered hostile.
After half an hour we were cleared by customs and immigration and were able to move onto our allocated berth.
After showering we enjoyed our celebratory champagne in the cockpit before wandering ashore to look at the town. Although most places were closed it seems very pleasant and I became quite excited at seeing M & S and Tesco.
We ate at the Waterfront restaurant and had a lovely meal celebrating in effect the end of ‘the passage’. It has been an eventful 2 months, we have seen and done so much during our 2000 mile trip that it is hard to remember it all, I am pleased I have kept a journal to remind us of places and events.
We spent the next four days relaxing and exploring Gibraltar doing all the tourist things and just enjoying the fact that we had arrived safe and sound. The boat had performed incredibly well and proved a comfortable home.
Since leaving Gibraltar we have cruised along the Costa del Sol, not the prettiest area but we have found some nice anchorages away from the developed areas.
We spent a few days at Duquesa which is a purpose built marina and apartment complex but was very well done. Here we experienced the Terral for the first time, it is a hot wind that comes from the centre of Spain and is searingly hot, it made life pretty unbearable for a couple of days when temperatures were in the 40’s.
We then moved on to Fuengirola where we met up with Paul and his family, they stayed with us for two weeks. It was lovely having the family on board and we did lots of touristy things with the grandchildren as well as some sailing and swimming off the boat. Most memorable for the grandchildren was when we were joined by a large school of dolphins, they played in our bow wave for some 15 minutes, and the children loved these beautiful creatures.
We went to Benalmadena intending to spend a few days there; it is a bit like Ocean Village meets Disneyland, and the visitors’ berths were so far from any amenities that we only stayed one night.
Needless to say there were tears on all sides when we saw the family off at the end of two weeks, but I consoled myself that it is not long to November when we shall be back home.
We have continued along the coast and we are now based at Almerimar which will be our winter berth although we will be doing a lot more cruising from here.
This will be the last passage report for this year but we hope everyone will still keep in touch with us, we have enjoyed hearing from our friends and family and we hope you have enjoyed sharing our adventure, it was a pity we had the hiccup with our E Mail
Ray and Sandra
Stratagem
Almerimar
Spain
