2nd September and we are back on board Stratagem in Yacht Marine, Marmaris. It is very hot - at least 35 degrees C and not a lot less at night! The yacht is in good shape, needing no more than a wash down before doing the re-commissioning to prepare her for sea once again. The hot weather is an incentive to getting things done to get out of the marina and to the (relative) coolness of being at sea once again.
A visit to Simi (Pethi) to check-in to Greece, our plan being to work our way northwards via the islands until time presses to get back to Kemer. Well, plans are no more than that and there are always obstacles to overcome on the way and this cruise was no exception to that!
Batteries (failure, that is) were the first thing but could be overcome by charging using the mains generator - that is until the generator decided it wouldn't start! Fuel seemed OK but valve timing, probably as a result of incorrect tappet adjustment was suspected as there was soon backfiring through the inlet valve. Without a way of turning the engine to set the tappets we had to "park up" the generator for now and hope the solar panels and the main engine would suffice.
We had worked our way northwards against the prevailing winds in what was quickly becoming a strong "meltemi year" but finally decided to stop bashing our heads against the wall and make for Turgutries in Turkey for repairs and eventually (hopefully!) some downwind sailing southwards. The marina at Turgutries is excellent but expensive for daily berthing at this time of year. The Technical Services however proved to be reasonably priced, helpful, and technically capable. It took them no more than 30 minutes to reset the valve timing and get the generator running sweetly and to obtaining and fitting a new domestic battery bank of 3 Delphi Freedom 140 amp batteries. Suddenly things were looking up and we looked forward again to the rest of our cruise back to Kemer.
It is worth saying that despite Turkey's changes to the law regarding disposal of both "black" and "grey" water from boats we have never experienced seawater contamination as bad as we found in Fethye this year. It would seem that each morning, a sewage pipe from the shore is released into the bay, making lying at anchor a most unpleasant experience! We had no alternative but to leave to get away from the smell and danger of being anchored in such contaminated water.
The weather forecast was showing strong winds to come so we decided on the new marina at Kas. We were subsequently very pleased to have done so, as the gales and torrential rain kept us there for 8 days. We were safe and were able to get ashore and enjoy the lovely town of Kas, where we enjoyed some good food at local restaurants. Our friends Terry and Margaret on Cerise decide to go on to Kekover where they had to withstand 40 knot winds lying at anchor, and our other friends Stuart and Jenny on Ananita were tied up in the old harbour in Kas - less comfortable than the marina, but much cheaper!
With thunderstorms in the offing and plenty of maintenance work to do to Stratagem before laying-up for the winter it seemed the best decision was just to get back to Kemer and some fun before going home.
The mix of people at the marina this year includes many from previous years, although a larger number of German and Swiss than previous compared to previous numbers of Brits and Americans. What is also noticeable is that there are fewer people living on board throughout the winter, with most returning home for a greater length of time. We have prepared Stratagem for a winter afloat and will return for a couple of weeks in January.
So, "why do we do it?" Well, despite the irritations of failing equipment the lifestyle is still attractive and of course the weather is rather better than back home - not forgetting of course the superb sailing area that the Aegean presents.
Can't wait to get back!
