Why do we do it?

2nd September and we are back on board Stratagem in Yacht Marine, Marmaris. It is very hot - at least 35 degrees C and not a lot less at night! The yacht is in good shape, needing no more than a wash down before doing the re-commissioning to prepare her for sea once again. The hot weather is an incentive to getting things done to get out of the marina and to the (relative) coolness of being at sea once again.

A visit to Simi (Pethi) to check-in to Greece, our plan being to work our way northwards via the islands until time presses to get back to Kemer. Well, plans are no more than that and there are always obstacles to overcome on the way and this cruise was no exception to that!

Batteries (failure, that is) were the first thing but could be overcome by charging using the mains generator - that is until the generator decided it wouldn't start! Fuel seemed OK but valve timing, probably as a result of incorrect tappet adjustment was suspected as there was soon backfiring through the inlet valve. Without a way of turning the engine to set the tappets we had to "park up" the generator for now and hope the solar panels and the main engine would suffice.

We had worked our way northwards against the prevailing winds in what was quickly becoming a strong "meltemi year" but finally decided to stop bashing our heads against the wall and make for Turgutries in Turkey for repairs and eventually (hopefully!) some downwind sailing southwards. The marina at Turgutries is excellent but expensive for daily berthing at this time of year. The Technical Services however proved to be reasonably priced, helpful, and technically capable. It took them no more than 30 minutes to reset the valve timing and get the generator running sweetly and to obtaining and fitting a new domestic battery bank of 3 Delphi Freedom 140 amp batteries. Suddenly things were looking up and we looked forward again to the rest of our cruise back to Kemer.

It is worth saying that despite Turkey's changes to the law regarding disposal of both "black" and "grey" water from boats we have never experienced seawater contamination as bad as we found in Fethye this year. It would seem that each morning, a sewage pipe from the shore is released into the bay, making lying at anchor a most unpleasant experience! We had no alternative but to leave to get away from the smell and danger of being anchored in such contaminated water.

The weather forecast was showing strong winds to come so we decided on the new marina at Kas. We were subsequently very pleased to have done so, as the gales and torrential rain kept us there for 8 days. We were safe and were able to get ashore and enjoy the lovely town of Kas, where we enjoyed some good food at local restaurants. Our friends Terry and Margaret on Cerise decide to go on to Kekover where they had to withstand 40 knot winds lying at anchor, and our other friends Stuart and Jenny on Ananita were tied up in the old harbour in Kas - less comfortable than the marina, but much cheaper!

With thunderstorms in the offing and plenty of maintenance work to do to Stratagem before laying-up for the winter it seemed the best decision was just to get back to Kemer and some fun before going home.

The mix of people at the marina this year includes many from previous years, although a larger number of German and Swiss than previous compared to previous numbers of Brits and Americans. What is also noticeable is that there are fewer people living on board throughout the winter, with most returning home for a greater length of time. We have prepared Stratagem for a winter afloat and will return for a couple of weeks in January.

So, "why do we do it?" Well, despite the irritations of failing equipment the lifestyle is still attractive and of course the weather is rather better than back home - not forgetting of course the superb sailing area that the Aegean presents.

Can't wait to get back!

2011- More Agean Cruising

All went well with completing the maintenance work on Stratagem, and relaunching her ready for Sandra arriving on 19th April. Polishing the hull was tough but well worth the effort and she gleamed as she did when she was much younger! Photos never fully show the result but this one taken with a mobile phone gives the idea.

The work at the chart-table was also completed - the hole left by the GPS filled with a direct replacement (Furuno) and the old chartplotter replaced with the Navtex unit. All very successful and neat, if I do say so myself!

Re-commissioning took another week, but at last the time came to leave. Our intentions were to leave Kemer for good this time, but no, we decided we will return later in the year for a "last" winter! And so the die is cast for this years cruising.....

The cruise up the Turkish coast incorporated the usual stops at Kekova, Kastelorizon, Fethye and Bozburun where we crossed to Symi to check into Greece. With our cruising permit suitably stamped we proceeded to Kos, where we haven't been for some time and met up with Alan and Sue on Ticketeeboo. We met them again a few days later in the delightful anchorage of Xerokambos on the southern end of Leros. At this point we did the last damage to our liver before parting company and going our separate ways!

We sailed northwards in lumpy sea conditions to Patmos where we anchored off the town out of the way of other boats which use the quay there. Little has changed since our last visit and we enjoyed our stay, safe in the knowledge of good holding should the weather deteriorate. The town was quiet and this was repeated on the subsequent islands we visited - a combination of people tightening their (financial) "belt", riots in Athens (?) and even the worsening political situation in the Eastern Med. What is also noticeable is the higher cost of food and drink. Not only have prices (in Greece) gone up sharply but the poor exchange rate between the £Sterling and the Euro also compounds the problem.

On leaving Patmos we were heading for a couple of islands not previously visited. The first, Lipsi, is a short sail (or mot oring in our case - in calm winds) eastwards to the harbour of Leipsoi. On arrival we found blustery winds inside the harbour and nowhere to anchor safely although plenty of quay room if that is what one is looking for - but not for us. We had read of a good anchorage to the east and so we carried on, and glad we did as we found ourselves in a delightful anchorage of crystal clear waters and entirely to ourselves. Even the taverna on the shore was not yet open!

Next stop was Agothonisi (a small island to the south of Samos), where we were also visiting for the first time. There is just enough space for a couple of yachts to anchor without getting in the way of the quay - again in crystal clear water and good holding, although (lack of) scope might be a problem if it blew a bit! The harbour police are vigilant about where yachts anchor insisting the quay is completely clear for boats to tie up without difficulty. The shoreside village is a delight and has a choice of restaurants to try. Still relatively early in the season, the evenings were cool but not too cool to sit out for eating at the restaurant with a perfect view of the harbour.

At this point we decided against going any further north as we had promised ourselves a few days in the Bozburun area against a deadline of getting Stratagem to Marmaris for the summer. So that's what we did and spent a week in Bozburun just "chilling out" spending time with other friends who were also doing the same thing.

Every cruise has its problems and ours was once again - the generator!! Only rebuilt in October last year and only used since then for a handful of hours, the cylinder head gasket was blowing, evidenced by oil leaking at the gasket. Fearing potential damage from water ingress via the failed gasket into the cylinders the generator was mothballed. Fortunately the solar panels were giving us ample power for our needs. Blues Yachting, who did the rebuild agreed to join us in Marmaris to do the repair which they did without question despite the necessary work being much more extensive than just a gasket change (e.g. new cylinder block, piton and rings!). Let's hope it lasts longer this time!

With Stratagem laid up for the summer, including covers to protect her from the fierce summer sun, we returned home to the UK to resume life there. No doubt the garden will be high on the list of jobs to be done............................

2011 and more maintenance!

The last days of February and the prospect of a week spent on board Stratagem to do some essential maintenance. Things did not start off well!

The Thomas Cook flight to Antalya was a bit of a nightmare. The flight was due to leave at 0720 from Gatwick (no flights from my usual Stansted) but was given a 1 hour delay as the incoming aircraft developed a fault and needed essential repairs.....Ummmm........After a couple of hours they admitted a delay until 1300. So at 1215 we were boarded only then to be told the crew had run out of hours and we still had no pilot - but not to worry as he would arrive in 10 minutes. What a lie!! By 1500 they admitted he wasn't coming and so a pilot from another Thomas Cook flight was to do the flight. By now a couple of passengers had caused such a rumpus they were removed and taken away by police, but unfortunately their luggage had to be taken off as well - so more delays. To end a long story, arrival in Antalya was in torrential rain - didn't bode well for my short visit to the boat.

Thankfully things turned out well and I had an enjoyable if hardworking

week. The stern tube seal worked out well and I was successful in removing the horrible scratched area on the starboard side of the hull caused by someone storing a dinghy between us and the adjacent boat. Of course I now have to do the whole hull when I return in mid April, but the attached photo shows the difference.

The other success was fitting an AIS receiver, a Vesper Watchmate 750. At the same time I removed the Furuno gps to take back to the UK for repair - if possible, although I am not hopeful. I am also left with re-locating the navtex on my next visit. Ignoring the hole which shouldn't be there, the photo shows the new unit in place.

When I return again in April, I have a lot of work to do to get Stratagem ready for re-launching and getting her ready for sea. With only 2 weeks before Sandra arrives I will have to be going some!! Until then it is back home and a very busy few weeks of family and friends including a visit to the Lake District to see some very old friends - something we are very much looking forward to................................