At long last a cooler day so that I can spend some time at the computer and write another epic. The summer has been so hot that it has been difficult to spend any length of time inside the boat so communications have suffered.
Our last report seems such a long time ago which was when we were anchored on the island of Trizonia. We loved it there and did not leave until Tuesday the 23rd May when the wind settled again and we headed for Corinth. The Corinth Canal is closed on Tuesdays for repairs so the plan was to moor in Corinth harbour and go through the canal early Wednesday. I was looking forward to the experience of travelling through the canal but not the problems of mooring at the other end to pay for our passage. We had heard some horrendous tales of boats damaged by the wash of the big ships going past.
Our journey to Corinth was on glassy seas, it was extremely hot and we saw lots of porpoise and dolphin. We reached Corinth at lunchtime but just as we were entering the harbour Ray noticed a motor boat exiting the canal (which was supposed to be closed). Ray radioed canal control and asked if the canal was open and was it possible to enter. We were as
ked our position, which was just ½ mile from the entrance, we were told to proceed immediately and go through. We had not expected to get through so were unprepared for what lights and signals to expect so I was quickly trying to find all the relevant information.
The canal is just 3.7 miles long and as you enter the outer entrance the road bridge which crosses the inner entrance lowers into the water and once submerged boats are given the green light to proceed. We were just in time to see the bridge going down and were given the green light. Normally boats go through in convoys with the biggest first; we were the only boat so went through completely on our own. What a fantastic experience, it was much narrower than I thought it would be, very high and very hot as the sun was overhead. As we passed a couple of tavernas at the exit everyone was snapping away with their cameras as we were the only boat through. Once through we tied up quite easily and paid our dues which were €189.
We were now in the Aegean and had to quickly plan where our stop would be for the night. It can be extremely windy when you come out of the canal but we were fortunate and had light winds and a calm sea. We decided to head for Korfos just south of the canal eating a late lunch whilst under way. We found a lovely anchorage and dropped anchor for the night. Our Swedish friends who had been about an hour behind us had also managed to get through the canal but their passage had not been as straight forward as ours but they joined us in the anchorage and we enjoyed drinks and a meal ashore.
The next day was extremely hot 35 degrees, so it was impossible to do anything but drink lots of water with the odd alcoholic beverage.
We now faced crossing the Aegean which has quite a reputation for strong winds (the meltemi) which hopefully we would avoid as they blow at their strongest during July and August. Our plan was to head as far north as possible, probably leaving Greece at Samos and entering Turkey at Kusadassi; however the best laid plans etc.
We motored in flat seas to Poros where we anchored in Mission Bay which would offer shelter from the expected wind. We had our first barbecue of the year enjoying the beautiful scenery as the evening wind died away and the temperature cooled.
We unearthed our mosquito nets as we noticed there were flying teeth about.
The next day we left Poros just after 8.00a.m. And headed to Loutra on Kinthos a journey of approx 50 miles. We were able to sail for 3 hours but then the wind headed us and we had to motor sail. Between the islands of Kea and Kinthos the sea was very lumpy but the boat performed well. We were able to tie up to the outer mole at Loutra which provided us with free electricity and water.
Checked forecast and there were strong South Westerly’s forecast for the next day which made our planned sail to Finikes on Siros no good as the anchorage is untenable in SW winds. We decided to go to the island of Paros where there is a large bay with numerous anchorages which offer shelter in all weather. We sailed and motor sailed until 7 miles from Paros when we got a fishing net around our prop. The rope cutter cleared it from the shaft but left a lump around the prop. We had to slowly limp the boat into harbour as the wind had died. We anchored just off the town as we intended getting a diver however during anchoring most of the net came off and we hoped the rest would clear. The town of Nassou is a typical Aegean town with cube shaped white houses with blue shutters around the harbour and up the hillside, it is a charming spot.
After our overnight stay we decided to leave for Naxos just a few miles away. Fortunately there was room for us in the ‘marina’, it wasn’t easy to tie up as the mooring buoys were fairly short and some are no longer usable but our Swedish friends helped us in. We went ashore and found a much needed cash machine a Vodaphone shop to top up our phone and my first newspaper for 2 weeks. We went for a walk around the old Kastro which is a warren of little streets which wend there way up to the old fortress. There are some lovely art and craft shops on the way which lengthens the journey. We then enjoyed a lovely meal on the quayside
We hired a car and went on a tour of this beautiful island. It is much more fertile than we imagined everyone said the islands in the Aegean are barren but this one certainly isn’t
Our first stop for coffee was Appollonas on the North side of the island; it is a beautiful fishing village with crystal clear water and a nice sandy beach. We then went up into the mountains and stopped at Halki for lunch and a visit to a distillery that makes liqueur from the abundance of lemons. Naturally we had a tasting and bought some. We passed through some lovely unspoilt villages on our way back to Naxos and then took the opportunity of calling at a supermarket to reprovision the boat.
When we reached Naxos the wind was extremely strong and the boats opposite us were having problems as they were being blown onto the pontoon but thankfully we were lying quietly.
Up very early to catch the boat to Santorini, I made sure I took some tablets
for sea sickness which was just as well as the sea was quite rough. Entering the caldera is quite stunning and the scenery is magnificent but I am pleased we did not attempt to take Stratagem there as the wash from all the ferries and boats from the cruise ships is just horrendous. We were picked up by bus and taken to Oiya which we felt was the more beautiful of the two towns we visited, much prettier than Thira the capital.
We had coffee at a restaurant overlooking the caldera and the view was fantastic but so were the prices. We wandered round the town which just tumbles down the cliff and is full of
art and craft shops. We then went on to Thira where we had lunch overlooking the whole crater but again paid for the view. We explored the town a little but it catered for the huge cruise ships so was a bit like Capri; full of jewellers and designer shops, not for us! The seas were rough on the way back and the boat had to slow down due to a heavy beam sea, this meant we were late back so it was a quick snack and bed.
A very hot day so after lunch I took the camera to the old (Naxos) town where it was shady and cooler. I managed to get tickets for a jazz concert which we attended later that evening. It took place in a wonderful setting of the courtyard of an old Venetian merchant’s house which overlooks the bay.
The next day was again very hot with strong winds forecast so we put extra heavy duty lines on. After lunch boats started streaming in due to the bad forecast, I was so pleased we decided not to leave yesterday.
Lots of fun and games today with yachts attempting to anchor. One charter boat took out all the anchors of the yachts on the trot opposite; he hadn’t a clue. How these people manage to charter these yachts (and this one was 49 feet long and quite valuable) is hard to understand. We were so pleased we had a mooring away from the mayhem!
Tuesday 6th June
At last we are on our way again. Left Naxos at 6.00a.m. to head for Levitha. The forecast was to rise to NW5 which would be behind us. We set off in calm seas but the wind quickly filled in and the sea increased, unfortunately on the beam. The motion wasn’t brilliant but we were able to motor sail all the way. Making lunch was impossible so just had snacks. We arrived at Levitha mid afternoon and managed to pick up the last visitors mooring. It was quite windy in the harbour but safe. The island is very barren and inhabited by a couple of goatherds and the light housekeeper.
After a windy night the wind suddenly died so we decided to leave for Leros just 21 miles away. We started in calm seas but again the swell quickly increased and we had a NW5. We roared along at one point reaching 9.1 knots and we covered the journey in just 3 hours. We entered the bay at Lakka which was flat calm so we decided to anchor off the town.
We had a dreadful night and were up at 4.30a.m. We had suffered a beam swell all night rocking the boat back and forth so had hardly any sleep. We left Lakka at 5.00a.m. to head for Kos which would be our last stop in Greece before entering Turkey? It was lumpy around the headland of Leros but once we passed between the islands and had the protection of Kalimnos the sea flattened and the wind was light. We motored at 7 knots and arrived in Kos marina at 9.ooa.m. after passing some spectacular scenery. We were given a warm welcome and a not very private alongside berth next to the marina office and all the facilities. We explored the marina and found the laundry so dropped off piles of washing to be washed dried and most importantly ironed. Ray hosed the boat off whilst I cleaned inside then we had a much needed siesta after lunch.
Refreshed we walked into town and looked around the harbour. The town has some really lovely areas but some of the more touristy parts around the harbour leave a lot to be desired. We had a fantastic meal in the square which allegedly still has the plane tree under which Hippocrates taught. It certainly looks very old and appears to be struggling to survive.
Our Swedish friends Lars and Maude arrived from Kalimnos we had a great meal with them in a fantastic Greek restaurant where we had one of the best meals we have had in Greece. We couldn’t understand the menu so the owner chose a selection for us and it was wonderful and cost just €10 per person including wine.
We decided to hire a car and explore the island. We went to the Asklipieion to see the ancient ruins of a religious sanctuary, a healing centre and a school of medicine. The ruins are in a fantastic setting with wonderful views across to Turkey. We then went up into the mountains to Zia which we found very touristy with coach loads of tourists. We bumped into Alan and Pat off Lucky Star so had coffee with them and caught up on news. I bought some local honey, olive oil and hand made soap. Sometimes you have to do some touristy things.
We then travelled to the other side of the island and had a very pleasant lunch at Mastihari. We also called at the supermarket to stock up on booze which we were advised is expensive in Turkey plus some pork and bacon for the freezer as you cannot buy pork products in Turkey.
The next day we visited the thermal springs but had to leave the car at the top of a cliff and walk down a steep cliff path to the bottom which wasn’t too bad going down but difficult climbing back up. The springs were very hot and Maude and I managed to get in but Ray and Lars decided a beer would be better. The sulphur smell of the water lingered on my skin as there was nowhere to shower off. We then went to the other end of the island and had a picnic on Magic beach which is one of a number of fine sandy beaches on this coast.
We left Kos for the final leg of our journey to Turkey. We headed for Turgetreis Marina just 7 miles away. We had a lovely sail in light winds lowering our Greek courtesy flag and raising our Turkish flag. We were met by a rib and given a very warm welcome, and the guys dealt with the mooring lines.
We thought checking in formalities might be difficult but they were easy if a bit convoluted. First of all you pay for a transit log from the marina; this allows you to sail in Turkish waters. Then you go to a separate building and go to immigration and health where the guy typed with one finger so it took a while. We then went to the passport police who took some details and then sent us to the harbourmaster. The harbourmaster put a stamp in our passports which was our visa, he then sent us back to the passport police who stamped the visa. We were then sent to customs who asked nothing just filled in a computer screen and then sent us back to the harbourmaster where we paid 9YTL for harbour dues and that was it. I forgot to mention that each person stamped each sheet of our entry papers at least twice. The entry papers are like a book so there was much stamping. All these people are in one long corridor but they don’t seem to share information; however it was all painless.
After lunch we visited the yacht club which is very nice with a lovely swimming pool and restaurant. The town is a bit like a Turkish version of Blackpool but we had an excellent meal with our first taste of wonderful Turkish bread.
We only realised this morning that we have finally crossed the Aegean which was much less painless than anticipated due to not taking the risk of sailing on dodgy forecasts. We really realised we were in Turkey when we heard the call to prayer from the mosque early this morning. Ray woke up with an awful cold so spent the day on board whilst I did some shopping and chores. Shopping could be fun in Turkey as I cannot speak a word of Turkish so I had better quickly learn some basics.
Thursday 15th June
We had a lovely sail to Bodrum in company with our Swedish friends. Again we were met and welcomed, the guy from the rib jumped on board and dealt with the mooring lines and two guys who were on the pontoon dealt with our stern lines, so far I have been very impressed with the service in the marinas. We were then welcomed by a hostess who gave us a welcome pack and took our details. When we went to the office we were given a lovely fresh lemon drink so all in all an excellent reception. On our walk into town we met Jan and Tony from Red Marlin who we knew from our stay in Lefkas. First impressions are good even though Bodrum is very touristy.
The next morning was very windy. After lunch we took a taxi to the castle where we spent a lovely 2 hours wandering round looking at the various exhibits particularly the underwater archaeological museum which had some wonderful glass artefacts removed from wrecks. We had drinks on board Davina Rimi before eating ashore at a lovely open air restaurant in an old olive mill.
Another very windy day so took a dolmus (bus) to an out of town shopping mall which had, wonder of wonders a small Marks and Spencers. There was a nice cool courtyard with fountains which was very welcome because as well as being very windy it was very hot. We ate at the rooftop restaurant in the marina which has lovely views and excellent food. The one thing we have noticed so far is the excellent food in Turkey which so far has been much better than Greece.
Strong winds again yesterday and today and it is forecast to continue so we hired a car it is so hot it will be nice to have air con. We went to Milas which was disappointing but the journey there and back was beautiful.
Tuesday 20th June
Up early to drive to Ephesus. We travelled through some lovely countryside. We stopped for coffee on the way and only paid 4YTL (£1.30) for 2 coffees a tea and a coke but the coffees weren’t drinkable and the toilets weren’t usable. We arrived at Ephesus and took the advice of some Americans and took the free bus via the leather factory so we would only have to walk one way –hopefully downhill. BIG MISTAKE, it was hard sell and although we only had to walk one way it was UPHILL. The ruins of Ephesus were wonderful but it was far too hot (40o+) to fully enjoy them even though we were fully prepared with lots of water, hats and a wet shawl. We intend going back and combining it with a visit to Selcuk during the cooler spring or autumn. After visiting Ephesus we dropped down to Kusadassi where it was cooler, had a late lunch before the long drive back to Bodrum.
After dinner we joined our Swedish friends to watch England v Sweden in the world cup. It was good that it ended in a draw.
Thursday 22nd June
Walked up to town to check on ferries to Kos as we might go there tomorrow so that we can cancel our Vodaphone contract but also to see our American friends Judy and Doug who have just arrived there. We spent the afternoon at the beach which was much more pleasant as there was a cool breeze comfortable loungers and parasols.
Friday 23rd June
Up early to walk along to the ferry. We found it was a real rigmarole clearing customs and getting passports stamped etc. It was a very quick crossing but then disaster struck as the boat was mooring it got a rope around its propeller. It then took a diver almost 1 and a ½ hours to free it so we were late ashore. It was great to see our friends Judy and Doug who we had last seen in Rome. We enjoyed a very pleasant lunch catching up on news and gossip. We returned to Bodrum in time to join Maude and Lars in their traditional midsummer celebration during which a lot of vodka was consumed. Another lovely day.
Sunday 25th June
An early start so that we could head for Datca. We had a great sail and arrived in time for lunch. We anchored in the bay which was noisy with people playing on the beach, then a band started practising for an open air concert. The bay itself is very pretty although there is some building work starting however the water was crystal clear if still a trifle cool.
Monday 26th June
A beautiful calm morning so Ray inflated the dinghy and we headed ashore for fresh supplies. The town was much nicer than we expected from the pilot book and we enjoyed our exploration.
We left Datca in light winds and sailed gently along the coast until we found a lovely anchorage called Kurucu Baku. It was surrounded by pine covered mountains which ran down to the shore with crystal clear water and only a couple of other boats at anchor. We had a barbecue and enjoyed the scenery as we watched a beautiful sunset.
Tuesday 27th June
There was no wind so we motored further along the peninsula as far as Kuyulu Buku where we anchored at the head of the south bay. As the afternoon wore on the clouds gathered and we could hear thunder in the distance. We prepared the boat in case we had to move quickly. The storm arrived and the wind started pushing us towards the shore so we raised anchor and motored to the North Bay which looked more protected.
We dropped our anchor in a sheltered spot and fortunately it bit first time. The storm passed fairly quickly but another started building and arrived just as we finished dinner. Eventually the sea calmed and the wind
died thank goodness.
We spent the next few days exploring the beautiful anchorages on this peninsula but then found our generator wasn’t working. We motored to Keci Baku to charge our batteries and found a fantastic anchorage. It was very hot and the sea was warm so we enjoyed a swim to cool ourselves down. Another thunderstorm built in the distance we could hear the thunder and see the lightning but it passed us by .
Saturday 1st July
We decided to pull onto one of the other restaurant pontoons as we needed to charge our batteries and didn’t want to run the engine as it heats the boat. It is a lovely spot and best of all it has a swimming pool which we made good use of. We walked to the local market for fresh fruit and veg which was incredibly cheap and extremely fresh.
We spent the afternoon with a number of English cruisers watching England lose to Portugal in the World Cup.
Monday 3rd July
Decided to stay another day at Keci Baku as there were strong winds forecast. We spent most of the day at the swimming pool trying to stay cool. We prepared the boat to leave tomorrow. Just as Ray was preparing to hose the boat our friends on Red Marlin arrived so naturally everything stopped for drinks and we enjoyed a great meal with them.
ent for a meal at a restaurant in the square of Seillans village. It was a wonderful atmosphere and we had a great meal and then they brought out a cake complete with sparklers. The whole square sang happy birthday even though we were probably the only Brits there. 
