Apologies yet again, the summer is nearly over and as usual I have found it difficult to find either the time or the inclination to type a passage report. The weather has been extremely hot so sitting in the cabin typing has not been an attractive proposition.
Our last report ended with our arrival in Crotone where we stayed for four days to allow some heavy weather to pass. we enjoyed our time in Crotone, it is the kind of place that improves with acquaintance.. There was a superb vegetable and fish market and a pleasant shopping area.
A number of boats we knew came into the harbour for shelter so we enjoyed some socialising waiting for the wind to die.
SUNDAY 22nd MAY - MONDAY 23rd MAY
Crotone to Corfu (155 miles, wind SE 2 to 4)
We were up late to a lovely morning, we had decided to stay another day to let the sea die and had agreed to have lunch out - however...the French boat next to us had spoken via VHF to a friend who was half way to Corfu and he was motoring on a tranquil sea. We discussed the forecast and decided to leave and head directly to Corfu instead of going further along the coast and making a shorter crossing.
We quickly prepared the boat and left at 1015a.m. for the 150-mile journey. The wind was light on our beam and the sea was calm so we motorsailed in company with Viviane (the French boat). We sailed on through the night with a full moon and flat seas reaching the Islands off Corfu just as the sun started to rise above the Albanian mountains ..a beautiful sight.
It was a fantastic crossing and a wonderful arrival in Greece with clear skies and incredibly blue sea. We arrived in Gouvia just after 9.30a.m. We radioed the marina and were met by a dinghy and taken to our berth.
The unique aspect of Gouvia, and new to us since our last visit here is that there is a private “runway” through the marina for seaplanes. It was a great shock to see one of these planes getting ready for takeoff as we approached!
We cleaned up and went to check in and get our cruising log from the Port Police. The policeman was extremely helpful and fortunately spoke excellent English so after paying our 45€ we received our log. We had a drink in the marina bar and I managed to buy an English newspaper. After a pleasant lunch we both had a much-needed shower and sleep. In the evening we ate out at a little taverna near the marina and had a very good meal which was extremely cheap. We walked back to the boat and there were hundreds of fireflies twinkling in the bushes ..a magical sight. All in all a great day, it is wonderful to be in Greece and we are both looking forward to cruising the Ionian Islands.
TUESDAY 24th MAY
After some chores and a visit to a supermarket which was very well stocked, I even managed to get some Branston pickle and Cadburys drinking chocolate. We decided to hire a scooter and go into Corfu town; it was fun on the scooter although I was nervous, as I felt vulnerable in just a T-shirt and shorts although we did have crash hats. We enjoyed wandering around Corfu and bought our Greek sim card for the phone. On our return we were going to pay for our berth at the marina office but it was closed. I thought we had just missed it as it was 10 past 6 but a man who was there said no it was 10 past 7 - I had forgotten to add the extra hour when we arrived in Greece. Our French friends on the yacht Viviane gave us a huge slice of fresh tuna, which they had caught during the crossing so dinner was sorted.
WEDNESDAY 25th MAY
Another hot day, we went into Corfu again to sort out GPRS with Vodaphone and then went touring the Island on the bike. We visited the West coast, which is mountainous and very beautiful passing through lovely villages and olive groves, the smell of the herbs was incredible. The only downside is the number of Brits here... we could be in England.
We had a barbecue and sat out until late waiting for the temperature to fall.
THURSDAY 26th MAY
A very hot morning so tried to do the chores early and then did some more exploring on the scooter, again the smell of the herbs and plants was wonderful the only downside was the bumpy roads. We had lunch overlooking the old fort in Corfu and then wandered through the park before returning to the boat. We met some friends from Almerimar who were passing through Gouvia on there way back from Turkey.
FRIDAY 27th MAY
Gouvia to Petriti (14 miles)
Decided to leave Gouvia and called at the fuel berth for fuel and water, we got fuel but no water, as there was a problem with the water so the watermaker will have to be put back into commission. There was a light breeze as we rounded the headland so we hoisted the sails and killed the engine and ghosted along at 3 knots.. It was wonderful; we had lunch under way and headed for Petriti. As we approached we could see thunderclouds forming over Albania but the wind died completely so we motored the last couple of miles. Just after we anchored the wind increased as the storm passed over, the wind and rain passed over quickly but left a slight swell, which slowly diminished. The sea became glassy and it was quiet and calm as Ray barbecued our evening meal.
SATURDAY 28thh MAY
Petriti to Mourtos (12 miles, wind SE3)
A lovely quiet night at anchor even the fishing boats coming in at 6.00a.m didn't create too much wash, it was a slightly misty morning but it quickly cleared. We decided to head for Mourtos on the Sivota Islands, we had a great sail all the way and arrived in time for a late lunch, we anchored in monastery bay, which is very beautiful with an old monastery on the headland. We were going ashore after lunch but could see the thunderclouds gathering over the mountains so we waited until they passed before going ashore for a drink and meal. The town is really only a village but very pleasant none the less. We had a very good meal and watched a fantastic sunset. We sat out with a drink once back on board and the only sound was the bells on the goats as they scrambled around the hillside.
SUNDAY 29th MAY
A cloudier morning but it quickly cleared to a very hot sunny day. We took the dinghy ashore to try and find some indigestion tablets, which we eventually found at an apothecary. First of all we were offered Ex Lax, then Imodium but eventually we got the message through, it was unusual, as we have found most Greeks speak good English. We were glad to get back to the boat to cool off as the sun was scorching. After lunch the thunderclouds gathered again but this time resulted in a terrific thunderstorm, which put paid to any further exploration. Eventually the sky brightened again and we were able to have a barbecue.
MONDAY 30th MAY
Mourtos to Lakka (12 miles, calm)
Another quiet night and beautiful morning, after breakfast as there wasn't a breath of wind we motored to Lakka on Paxos.This is an almost landlocked bay which was fairly quiet and we found a good place to anchor before having our lunch. It was very hot and Ray tried to solve the problem we were having with the windlass but was unsuccessful, the windlass works but it won't freefall which makes it difficult in deep anchorages as we or I cannot get the chain down quickly. We went ashore for pre dinner drinks and then barbecued some steaks for dinner before watching another wonderful sunset.
TUESDAY 31st May
After breakfast we decided to clean the waterline which is developing a beard, we eventually finished one side by lunchtime, we did have some breaks to try and sort out some computer problems when Paul phoned, it was not a very satisfactory morning. The evening was calm and warm so we went ashore for pre dinner drinks; a number of flotilla boats came in and tied to the quay (mostly British) so it was interesting watching them manoeuvre.
WEDNESDAY 1st JUNE
The start of another month with another lovely morning in a beautiful anchorage. We cleaned the waterline on the other side of the hull and then went ashore for fresh bread etc. There were only 3 boats left in the bay as all the charter boats had left but after lunch the boats started coming in and it was interesting watching the activity. Ray decided to have a swim, he said it was ok once he was in but I think I'll wait until the water is warmer. We now have a problem with the generator, which hopefully we can get repaired in Levkas. We went ashore to eat and had an excellent meal of sea bass, which was very fresh and cooked to perfection served with lovely vegetables. We will probably go to Gaios tomorrow.
THURSDAY 2nd JUNE
Lakka to Gaios (11 miles)
A lovely morning but some swell from passing ships crept into the anchorage and woke us. After breakfast we motored to Gaios further down the coast of Paxos. We needed to motor to charge the batteries until the generator is fixed. We anchored just outside the south entrance as we have witnessed the chaos of crossed anchors on the quay. Once we were satisfied that the boat was ok we went ashore to check in with the port police. We eventually found their office only to find they wanted all our documents not just the passage log, which has all the information anyway. We stopped for coffee and were surprised at how few yachts there were in the harbour. We had a fairly lazy afternoon and then went ashore again and checked in with the port police and then had a drink whilst watching the boats attempting to berth in the harbour. We had a barbecue and were sitting after dinner when suddenly from nowhere the wind and seas increased dramatically and we were being driven towards the shore. We quickly weighed anchor and sought shelter on the other side of the headland by which time the wind was howling and was almost gale force. We had a very hairy journey round the headland as we were caught with the dinghy still down with the engine on, we thought the dinghy would flip as the waves were so big. There was also lots of banging and crashing from below, as the boat was not prepared for sea.
We eventually got under the lea of the headland and got the engine off and stowed the dinghy, we also made everything safe below. We could have anchored in the bite between the two islands but we were unsure of the holding so decided to head back to Lakka which we knew had good holding and protection. It was 9.0.clock when we left Gaios and 10.0.clock when we reached Lakka by which time it was almost dark. The anchorage was obviously busy so we anchored just inside the entrance, fortunately the anchor bit first time, as there wasn't much room to manoeuvre. We did some tidying up and then had a drink by candlelight whilst watching thunderstorms track up the Greek mainland, obviously the cause of the sudden squall.
FRFIDAY 3rd JUNE
We had much better nights sleep than I thought we would have as the wind died and the night was calm. We awoke to a beautiful clear bright morning with improved visibility; we were able to see the Greek mainland very clearly. We decided to hire a motorbike, as we needed to go back to Gaios to get our log stamped for leaving the Island. The bike we hired had fierce brakes and gear change which did not make the ride very comfortable. We got our papers duly stamped and the port police filled in a form for harbour dues which would have been 5€ for 2 nights but when he realised we had been at anchor there was no charge so he tore up the paperwork. We stopped for a drink and watched the world go by before riding to Mongonisi, which is an anchorage on the tip of Paxos. It is a very pretty safe anchorage but with a very weedy bottom so we suspect the holding will not be good. We then went to Longos, which is a tiny village where we had lunch and met another couple who were also anchored in Lakka. We then headed back to Lakka by a different route, when we arrived the bike shop was closed so we went back to the boat for a short siesta. At 6 we returned ashore to return the bike keys and helmets then did some shopping and had a drink. We returned to the boat to shower and change before returning ashore to eat in a garden restaurant, so all in all a very enjoyable day.
SATURDAY 4th JUNE
Lakka to Levkas (37 miles, wind SW 3 to 4)
A beautiful morning with a good forecast so we decided to leave for Levkas on Lefkada. We had to motor most of the way, as there was no wind.. About 2 hours from Levkas the wind filled in from the west and naturally increased as we approached the canal between the mainland and Lefkada. There is a bridge, which spans the canal, which opens on the hour every hour to allow boats to enter the canal. We were early for the 3.00p.m. opening so slowed down and dawdled to the tricky entrance which is surrounded by sandbanks. There was a very large motorboat and two other yachts waiting to go through so we all did a dance in the narrow entrance channel as we waited. We radioed the marina that were expecting us and were met and our lines taken. It was pretty tricky getting in as there was very strong crosswind but we managed fine. Once tied up a couple of cruising association members came and introduced themselves as they had seen our CA flag.
We checked into the marina and confirmed our winter berth and then checked in with the port police, which was all very straight forward. The marina seems well organised with a supermarket and laundry on site as well as the usual bars and restaurants. It was obviously change over day for many of the charter boats so there was lots of cleaning and stocking of boats with new arrivals waiting around to collect their boats. Our first impressions of both the marina and the town are good and we look forward to spending some time here in the winter. Unfortunately Ray pulled his back as he was pulling in the bow line.
SUNDAY 5th JUNE to FRIDAY 10th JUNE
We spent the next few days giving the boat a thorough clean inside and out and then re provisioning, as we aren't sure how good the shops will be on some of the quieter islands. We also spent time exploring Levkas, which is a working town and not just a holiday, resort. It was devastated by an earthquake in 1953 so most of the buildings upper floors are now made of corrugated iron sheets painted in bright colours and the churches bells are hung in metal towers by the side of the church. There was another minor earthquake 2 years ago and they are still carrying out repairs in some areas. The people are very friendly and take great pride in their homes and their town, it is kept extremely clean with no litter and they seem to grow plants anywhere in anything so it is pleasant and interesting strolling around the back streets. We were forced to stay a little longer than intended as some gusty weather passed through the Ionian.
FRIDAY 10thh JUNE to SUNDAY 28th AUGUST
We left Levkas on the 10th of June and have spent the last two and a half months cruising around the Islands. The weather has been very hot particularly in July when the temperature at night was still in the mid 20s so sleeping was difficult at times.
We continued to explore Lefkada and visited Nidri anchoring in Ormmos Vlikho, which is a huge virtually landlocked bay and offers wonderful shelter in any weather, we safely sat out a two-day gale there. The water is fairly shallow so was very warm for swimming until the jellyfish arrived at the end of July but we were there earlier this week and there is no sign of them now. We keep going back to Sivota another virtually landlocked bay but much smaller than Vlikho, and is therefore more crowded particularly during August when the dreaded Italians arrived.
Perhaps our favourite anchorage is Sivota where Sailing Holidays base their charter boats. It is a busy little bay with just a few bars and tavernas but there is always something interesting going on particularly when the charter boats come in. We now know a number of the taverna owners so tend to get special treatment, which is nice, they always seem pleased to see us even when we are not eating there.
MEGAANISI We have visited Meganisi numerous times anchoring in crystal clear water in secluded bays with only goats and wasps for company. We also stayed in Vathi, which is only a village but has good fish tavernas and a shop and bakery
ITHAACA is a beautiful island and we have anchored at Vathi (another one), which is a bigger town (it has a cash machine) a greater selection of bars and tavernas and a busy harbour. The disadvantage is that it can be quite windy but a lovely place to spend a few days. Frikes is a much smaller village and the harbour is very small and popular with flotillas so we anchored in a bay just outside the harbour.
CEPHALONIA The largest of the Ionian Islands with lovely anchorages where we have been the only boat at anchor contrasted with Fiskhardo which is an upmarket tourist town and Ay Eufemia which is a lovely harbour with a few bars and shops, a beach and again crystal clear water.
KALAAMOS is one of the smaller islands close to the mainland, we anchored in Port Leone, which has a deserted village that was ruined by the earthquake in 1953 and left abandoned. We wandered round the ruins and there are some houses, which look as if they could be easily restored. We spoke to one of the locals from Kalamos town who told us the earthquake had been the final straw as the village had been dying economically even before the earthquake. He had been born in Port Leone but had left as there had been no way of making a living there before the earthquake.
KAASTOS is an extremely small island next to Kalamos and has we think some of the nicest anchorages as they are seldom visited by other boats (particularly charter boats and flotillas) as they are further off the beaten track. The village of Kastos has a taverna up on a headland by a windmill, which gives the most fantastic views at sunset so when we are there we make sure we are sitting with a drink as the sun goes down.
On all of the Islands we have managed to find anchorages in quiet bays to barbecue and find peace and quiet
We have zig zagged around and between the Islands visiting some places numerous times. August has been very busy with lots of Italian and charter boats however we were still able to find secluded anchorages. We were pleased to be self-sufficient so we didn't need to go into the quays for water and we are able to generate our own electricity when we need it. We didn't go into a quay until we returned to Levkas at the end of July to pick up Paul and the family from Preveza airport.
We had a great 3 weeks with them even though at times we had more wind than we wanted but we were always able to find good shelter. The kids did lots of snorkelling and fishing and seemed to have a really good time. We were sorry to see them go but it won’t be long until we return to the UK in November.
Rays sister Pat is joining us for a week in September and we are looking forward to seeing her.
We have met up with many friends from last winter and some of them will be spending this winter in Levkas so it promises to be a very sociable time.
We are both well but trying to shed some weight we put on whilst the family were with us. Ray did hurt his back earlier in the season so I had to try and tackle some of the chores he normally undertakes. He had about 3 weeks of rest during which time we hired a car and explored the island of Lefkada. It is a very mountainous island so the views are fantastic. There are some lovely small towns and villages but I think our favourite is Karya where we sat in the tree shaded square and had lunch.
The weather continues to be very hot and sunny and we are planning to continue sailing until at least the end of October and then we are hoping to hire a car and do some exploring of the mainland particularly Zakhora which was recommended by Richard and Bridget Haller. We met with them during their holiday on Lefkada at the end of August and spent an enjoyable couple of days with them. On one day we took them sailing – in very light winds so it was mostly under engine, and on another day we visited them at the villa they had rented for their stay on the island. The luxury of a bath to soak in was just divine!
I think that is all our news, as you can tell we have had a fairly relaxed sailing year just pottering around which we have both enjoyed.
We hope to see as many friends as possible when we return this winter. We fly back to the UK on 18th November and whilst not looking forward to the cold, as always we look forward to seeing family and friends over Christmas.
