Elba to Ostia (Italy)

This is the last passage report from Stratagem for this year. The gale did arrive as forecast at the end of our last report, the port was full as boats arrived to seek shelter. The ormeggatori squeezed everyone in using their rib (inflatable boat) to help manoeuvre boats which were struggling to berth as the wind increased. We were very impressed with their dedication as they stayed very late to make sure everyone was safely in. We met up with some friends we had made in Mallorca and also met an interesting couple who have been sailing around the world for 16 years but are now heading back to the UK, Madge is 80 and Ken is79 both very fit for their age but they feel they now don’t have the reserves of strength for coping with difficulties that may arise.
The weather continued hot but very windy for almost a week so we didn’t get to leave Elba until Sunday 19th September. We headed to Cala Galera some 60 miles South of Elba. There was little wind so we motor sailed arriving at around 5.15p.m.and anchored in a very pleasant bay bounded by a nature reserve. We sat in the cockpit with a drink watching the wildlife. Just perfect!
Our last anchorage of the year turned out to be lovely and peaceful and we set out for our final sail of thee year to Ostia feeling rested and at peace with the world. Our final sail was superb with warm sunny weather and light winds, we carried both sails all the way and completed our 63 miles in 10 hours. I was pleased we had 2 good sailing days before laying up for the winter. We probably could have sailed for another month but the weather was likely to be more unsettled and I felt ready for a break from sailing.
We were helped into our berth in Ostia by an American and an Italian and were safely tied up by the time the marineros arrived. We have a good berth and there are now over 70 live aboard boats in the marina from many countries but predominantly Americans and British boats. We are starting to get organised so the social life is improving.
The marina has lots of shops (expensive) and a few bars and restaurants (also expensive). There are a number of supermarkets nearby and a good open vegetable market. It is a 10/15 minute walk into the town of Ostia which is quite a pleasant town, nothing spectacular but one can buy most things there. The downside is that the area around the marina is a slum although it appears to be being renovated, however the upside is that we can get into Rome in 45 minutes and it only costs 1Euro. The bus stops at the marina and takes us to the Railway/Metro station. The Italians have a ticket system whereby a 1Euro ticket lasts for 75 minutes and you can travel on as many buses and trains plus 1 metro journey in that 75 minute period. We have so far been into Rome 3 times and are taking our time with the sightseeing. We have also been to Florence for 4 days.
We travelled by Euro star which is very cheap and efficient and arrived in Florence in under 2 hours and had a great time. We actually climbed the 400+ steps to the top of the Duomo to enjoy the fabulous view of the city.
The weather has continued to be very warm and was 77o today which is apparently unusual for this time of year. However we have also had some terrific thunderstorms and some high winds but we aren’t complaining. We even had a cruisers picnic on the beach last week. We are slowly getting through the chores ready for when we leave the boat to return to the UK. We have a flight booked to Stanstead on the 23rd November and hopefully will see as many friends as possible whilst we are home.
Three countries (Spain, France and Italy) visited over a distance of 1600 miles travelled concludes another super sailing year. Already we are starting to plan our cruising itinerary for next year – but that will be another story……………….

See you soon

Regards

Sandra and Ray

Spain to Elba, via France and Italy

At long last I have found time to sit and write a passage report It is hard to believe how quickly time passes and how full our days are. In order to keep these reports briefer I will try and miss out some of the more mundane information even though many of you replied and said to keep them as they were.
Our last report ended when we were moored off the Isles las Medas in strong winds, well the next day the wind steadily increased and we dragged the mooring so I spent a very worried day in the cockpit checking our position. Eventually the wind eased and we moved to another mooring however the wind increased again even though the forecast was for the wind to die.We expected a sleepless night but fortunately in the early hours the wind died completely and we were able to get a good nights sleep.

SATURDAY 3RD JULY
Islas Medas to Puerto Rosas, 12.0 m, no wind but moderate sea.
A slightly cloudy morning with little wind so we decided to head for Puerto de Roses. Once clear of the shelter of the Islands there was quite a swell running which stayed with us until we closed the land in the Bay of Roses. We passed L’Escala where we rented a villa 30 years ago when it was a small fishing village. It is now a large holiday resort with a marina. Once we reached Roses we decided to go into the new municipal marina where there was lots of space having only opened the previous week. The marinero put us miles from the facilities and then put a French yacht alongside us even though there were dozens of vacant berths. After we had tied up we took the dinghy to go to the office to check in as it was such a long walk.
After lunch we had 2 trips to the supermarket to stock up as our supplies were getting low. We ate on board and were going to have a walk after dinner but we were both too tired.

SUNDAY 4TH JULY
A beautiful morning so we spent it cleaning the boat before going for some more shopping. The wind had filled in so we went ashore for lunch. Roses is much nicer than we thought it would be and there were lots of restaurants offering very reasonable Menu del dias. We found one with a pleasant tree shaded courtyard and had a delightful lunch for10E each including wine, bread and dessert. We then wandered through the streets to the citadel which was very interesting but it was far too hot to be wandering around so we didn’t stay as long as we would have liked. The wind had really increased and was whipping the sand off the beach but the boat was still ok when we got back. We helped an English charter boat to berth as the wind was now very strong and then (of course!) we had a drink with them.

MONDAY 5TH JULY
Puerto Rosas to Cadaques, 7.1m, wind SE3-4.
Another beautiful morning, I went and paid our dues and by the time I returned Spirit of Faith was ready to leave but unfortunately got a rope around his prop. We hung on to them whilst they tried to clear it but eventually they had to contact the office for a diver at which point we decided to leave as it was 11.00a.m.. We motored to Cadaques passing some beautiful calas on the way but we felt they were too exposed for anchoring in current conditions of South/South East 3 to 4. We reached Cadaques and picked up a mooring which we found belonged to one of the pleasure boats. A marinero came alongside and directed us to another mooring which happened to be a nice new one. We had lunch and then planned on going ashore but the weather had changed and it looked as if it might rain but we eventually decided to go even though we might get wet. We walked around the old town which is lovely stopping as usual to sample the refreshments. The rain didn’t materialise and the evening was so nice Ray barbecued the evening meal. The only down side of the mooring is the boat next to us has touched us once as she doesn’t seem to swing the same way as the other boats.

TUESDAY 6TH JULY
After a disturbed night due to the problem of the boat next to us, eventually we got up at 6.00a.m. It rained slightly during the morning but then cleared and became hot and sticky. We went ashore and bought some chandlery and fresh produce, we have noticed the price of drinks and eating out here is much more expensive than previous places. Is this because so many people visit because of Dali and it is pushing prices up?
I managed to book us a berth at Llanca for tomorrow (my Spanish must be improving they understood me) so we prepared the boat for sea again.

WEDNESDAY 7TH JULY
Cadaques to Llanca, 12.1m, wind very little but strong southerlies forecast.
Up early to a cloudy sky but no wind. We had a poor night due to the swell rolling into the anchorage so we left Cadaques at 7.00 a.m. and headed for Llanca. The coastline on the way was stunning, very rocky and wild but well known for strong winds. When we reached Llanca we filled up with fuel and then moved to our berth. The marineros were useless but we eventually got tied up. It was a good berth in that it was close to the capitanerie and facilities which includes washing machines and dryers (what luxury). Llanca is a very pleasant town, which because it is so close to the French border has lots of French holidaymakers and the local population seem to speak French rather than Spanish. The port also has a large fishing fleet so we went to watch the fish being auctioned. We were amazed that it is all carried out electronically with the buyers sitting in front of a conveyor belt and as the fish came along they enter their bids using digital handsets. There are two local fish shops and the fish is on sale within an hour of being landed.

THURSDAY 8TH JULY
We took the train to Gerona, that is when we eventually found the station having taken the wrong road. It was only E4.90 return - excellent value, despite the train being delayed just outside Gerona for ¾ hour. It wasn’t far from the station to the old town and we enjoyed a couple of hours wandering through the old streets and cathedral area, all beautifully preserved. We had a lovely lunch in a pleasant shady square, we both tried Catalan rabbit which was excellent. We then wandered some more before catching the train back to Llanca. Our journey back was accompanied by torrential rain which was still pouring down when we arrived in Llanca so we hailed a taxi back to the boat.

FRIDAY 9TH JULY TO WEDDNNESDAY 14TH JULY
We ended up having to stay in Llanca as a Tramontana (very strong gale from NW) blew through. We had some good company as a British couple on an Oyster 39 berthed next to us. Ray had a couple of heavy hangovers. We had a couple of sleepless nights due to the noise of the wind as it was quite ferocious. We used our enforced stay to catch up on some jobs such as polishing the boat etc. The only consolation was that it was sunny and hot.

THURSDAY 15TH JULY
Llanca to Iles de Frioul (Marseille), 111.6m, wind NE quickly going SE and SW, slight sea.
A lovely quiet night last night. We awoke to blue skies and NO WIND. We decided the forecast was ok for our crossing of the notorious Golf du Lion which would include a night crossing. Ray prepared the boat whilst I did some shopping as we didn’t need to leave until lunchtime in order to get into Marseille early in the morning. We decided to leave at 11.00a.m.just as the wind filled in and the plan being that we would sail for as long as possible as there was no time constraint. We had a hiccup as we left as Ray hadn’t realised the marinero had tied the guideline for the mooring to one of our cleats but we got out safely in the end.
The wind was a steady force 4 occ 5 from the SE going SW giving us a great sail until the wind eased at about 10.00p.m. when the swell became very uncomfortable. We switched on the engine and motor-sailed with Ray keeping first watch whilst I had a sleep and then I did the second watch. Visibility was poor and the sky was very grey as we approached Marseille and the Isles de Frioul where we were heading. We took down our Spanish courtesy flag which has been flying from our cross- trees (up the mast) since last July and raised our French courtesy flag.
We arrived around 8.30a.m. but spent ages trying to find where visitors were meant to go as there were no signs, we also spent ages preparing ropes as it was a pick up buoy to tie to. Ray decided to go in bows to which meant I had to pass a long rope through the top of the pick-up buoy and then pay it out from the stern as Ray motored forward before taking the bow lines ashore. Fortunately I reached the buoy first time and passed the rope through making sure to keep it taut so it didn’t get caught in the prop. Eventually we were all tied up and the boat tidied and went to the Capitanerie to check in. I found this very difficult, having been in Spain for a year I automatically answered in Spanish - very weird. After breakfast I decided to try and catch up on some sleep as I was very tired, this was the first overnight crossing since we crossed Biscay. I had just over an hours refreshing sleep and woke to bright, hot sunshine. We had a walk ashore before lunch and found some pleasant small restaurants although they are more expensive than in Spain - particularly drinks. We paid 5E for a small beer and a coke which we were paying 2.80E for in Spain
We found out where the ferry leaves from as there is a ferry to Marseilles which runs every ½ hour as the Islands are a popular destination for the Marseillese. After lunch we had a well earned siesta. We were both relieved to have got the notorious Golf du Lion behind us as it is such a windy area with winds increasing to gale force in a matter of minutes.
We decided to eat ashore so we took a pre dinner walk along to the headland and saw some beautiful anchorages although they were very busy. We then found a little restaurant overlooking the bay and had a lovely meal before returning to the boat for a reasonably early night.

SATURDAY 17TH JULY
A beautiful warm sunny morning with a forecast for a hot day. We caught the ferry to Marseille and enjoyed wandering around the old district and. the Cathedral, which is very reminiscent of Italian cathedrals and very different inside with a huge nave and beautiful mosaic floors. We found a nice restaurant (again) and had a very good lunch. It was extremely hot even in the shade so lunch was a leisurely one with lots of water(???) to drink. We then wandered around the city (even some shops other than food) before catching the ferry back to Frioul.

SUNDAY 18TH JULY
I walked ashore for croissants and pan au chocolat, it was a beautiful morning and we sat and watched the boats coming in and out of the harbour. It was very hot but about 5.30 when it started to cool a little we walked up to the fort. It was fascinating, it had obviously been part of the defences of Marseille and had been bombed during the war. It was somewhat eerie and one could just imagine the horror when the bomb hit. The views over the Bay of Marseille were fantastic, there were hundreds of yachts around. It was too breezy to barbecue but by the time I had cooked our evening meal the wind had died.

MONDAY 19TH JULY
Iles de Frioul to Sormiou, 9.8m, no wind but sea swell.
We left Frioul in gorgeous sunshine and headed for the Calanques, which are deep inlets in the high limestone cliffs between Marseille and Toulon. As we rounded the islands off the bay of Marseille the scenery was spectacular. It was a pity that there was no sheltered anchorage due to the forecast of SW winds. At the time we passed there was no wind although there was a slight swell. The first calanques were very small but we headed into Calanque du Sormiou and dropped anchor. We were surprised at how few boats there were, mainly just day boats, we suspected we would be on our own overnight.
The wind increased in the afternoon and unfortunately so did the swell making it very uncomfortable. The forecast was for the wind to go Easterly and then die but it didn’t start to drop until late evening and there was still quite a swell at 9.30p.m. when I prepared our evening meal and Ray cooked it.
We sat out until almost midnight watching the wind and swell reduce. A couple of yachts came in and anchored but there were only 5 boats in what is a fairly large anchorage. At least we knew our anchor held but we didn’t get much sleep due to the movement from the swell.

TUESDAY 20TH JULY
Sormiou to Cassis, 7.0m, no wind, just a rolling sea.
Up early after an awful night, we left the anchorage after breakfast and motored up the coast nosing into a number of calanques just to admire the spectacular scenery. We hope we will be able to return to them when the wind is more favourable. We decided to go into the marina at Cassis as the forecast was for SE/SSE 4 which meant all of the calannques would be exposed and subject to heavy swell. We entered the harbour at Cassis which looked very crowded and pulled onto the reception quay. Fortunately they had a berth for us. It is a super Marina and town, very reminiscent of a small St Tropez. The marina and harbour are the hub of the town with lots of bars and restaurants, and there are also some lovely little back streets full of restaurants and artisan shops. It is obviously a holiday resort for the French and they seem to be keeping it for themselves as there were very few foreigners and no English. The pilot book was right to say it is a gem.

WEDNNESDAY 21ST JULY
A very hot still morning. There was an excellent market today with lots of fresh produce including cheese, olives, tapenade etc, all of which were offered for tasting. I couldn’t resist the olives in herbes de Provence, they were wonderful so I bought both green and black ones. I also bought some hand made soaps as a treat. After lunch we decided to go for a walk but gave up as it was just too hot so had a drink on the quay instead. Later in the evening we walked ashore to find a restaurant but the ones we fancied were booked for the outside tables and it was just too hot inside. We eventually settled for a fish restaurant on the quay and had a lovely meal even though we couldn’t understand the waiters. We sauntered back to the boat stopping to view the pavement artists and mime artists, all very entertaining.

THURSDAY 22ND JULY
Cassis to Isle de Embiez, 14.1m, no wind but strong wind forecast.
We left Cassis to head for an anchorage off the Isle d’Embiez and sailed very slowly as there was little wind. The coast is fantastic with huge sandstone cliffs which have eroded into beautiful shapes. The most spectacular is the eagles beak, the cliff looks like a huge eagle and the beak sticks out so the boat passes under ‘the beak of the eagle’. There was a lot of mist around but we managed too keep out of it and really enjoyed our sail even though we only managed to average 2 ½ knots. It seems that there will be stronger winds over the weekend so we will try and get a berth in Sanary sur Mer tomorrow. We anchored in a bay off Isle d’Embiez where there are some superb anchorages although some of which we cannot get into as our draught is too deep. The Island was bought by Paul Ricard who developed it to preserve the environment. There are no cars, just electric service vehicles and there are lots of walks around the Island which we hope at some point to explore.
During the late afternoon the mist kept thickening and then drifting away and the wind died completely. The mist eventually cleared at about 8.00p.m. and we enjoyed our barbecue watching the sunset. It was a wonderful evening especially as a whale (probably a pilot whale) came into the bay and kept coming to the surface and clearing his blowhole.

FRIDAY 23rd JULY
Isle de Embiez to Sanary sur Mer, 2.3m
Another beautiful still morning and breakfast out in the cockpit. We then we motored over to Sanary and moored up at the reception pontoon. At the capitanerie, they were very helpful although they would not know until the afternoon if they had a berth but said we could wait on the reception pontoon and even if a berth didn’t become available we could stay there. We had lunch and then a marinero came to direct us to a berth. We entered well and I gave him our starboard line which he led back to me. I then expected him to give me the guide rope for the stern but he didn’t. Instead he leapt on the boat next to us, and in the meantime of course we drifted off and Ray had to throw him a rope to try and hold us in. I couldn’t get off and the boat drifted forward and we touched. Eventually I managed to jump ashore and prevent any further damage. A right shambles. Needless to say Ray was furious as the front of the boat has a slight scuff on it all because of an incompetent marinero. Why he jumped onto the boat next door I’ll never know.
Ray eventually simmered down and we went for a walk and drink ashore. The town is lovely and I am looking forward to exploring it more fully.
We walked back to the capitanerie and paid for 3 nights, and then stopped and watched a game of Boules or Petanque I’m not sure which, but it was very entertaining, there were some real ‘characters’.

SATURDAY 24TH JULY
A restless night due to the heat and the wind. Ray decided to work on the dinghy engine which has been giving us problems while I walked up to the produce market. It is a wonderful daily market full of fresh produce including fish, cheese, olives etc. We made enquiries about hiring a car as there are some places inland I would like to visit but we decided it is just too hot to be sightseeing. We did some chores and then when it had cooled a little we explored the town and had a pre dinner drink whilst watching the boules. We ate late as it was so hot and we were still in bathing costumes at 10.00p.m.

SUNDAY 25TH JULY
A slightly cooler morning but still very hot. After some chores we strolled up to town for some bread for lunch. Surprisingly the produce market was on and we enjoyed strolling round and tasting things. We bought some goats cheese we had tried which was lovely. We then had coffee before walking to the capitanerie for a weather forecast. The forecast still isn’t good with strong winds for tomorrow, so we will be staying in Sanary for another night, but this is no hardship as it is such a lovely place and so VERY French with few foreign visitors. The wind did not materialise until early evening and then we could see the swell out at sea. Fortunately the harbour is well protected.

MONDAY 26TH JULY
Although hot the forecast is for strong winds so we have paid for another 2 nights. We saw Odette , a boat we had seen in Mahon and Pollensa so went to say ‘hello’. Once back on board we sorted out some locker space ready for the family coming. We then helped a Nauticat 51 to berth. The small boat he went alongside looked horrified when he saw it coming towards him as it was such a big boat. The wind steadily increased all day and became very strong during the evening, when I listened to it howling through the rigging. I was pleased to be tucked up in harbour.

TUESDAY 27TH JULY
Another gorgeous morning. We walked round the headland and back to the port past some fantastic villas. The views were wonderful. We spent the afternoon doing chores which improved when Rob from Odette invited us on board for drinks. We had a very pleasant couple of hours with them before leaving to find a restaurant. We had a lovely meal and then found there was a large night market which we enjoyed wandering around as it was mostly artisans and not tourist ‘tat’. Once back on board it was so warm and calm that we sat out with a drink.

WEDNESDAY 28TH JULY
Sanary sur Mer to Isle Porquerolle, 26.2m, wind SW3 to nil to NE3
We went to the capitanerie to see if we could book a berth for a month as we think this would be a good base for the family while they are with us, but no chance. They will probably let us stay for a week when Paul comes and so we have made a reservation although they don’t normally reserve berths. There was a huge market today but I just bought fresh produce before we left harbour and set sail for Isle Porquerelle which is one of the Islands just off Hyeres. We had a good sail for half of the passage before the wind headed us and the sea turned lumpy, so we motor sailed the rest of the way. The Island is lovely and we managed to find a place in one of the crowded anchorages. The water is crystal clear, and although we are in 6 ½ metres we can see the bottom quite clearly. The scenery is spectacular with the massif in the background enhanced by a wonderful sunset.

THURSDAY 29TH JULY
We took the dinghy ashore this morning and then walked the 1 km to the village. We wandered around but it was extremely busy with lots of people coming off the ferries as the Island is a popular day trip from Hyeres and Toulon. We walked back to the dinghy and had a swim too cool off. The water was lovely, so clear and warm and the bottom was soft sand. After lunch and a few chores we watched the comings and goings in the harbour which is extremely busy. Watching some of the attempts at anchoring is better than watching television.

FRIDAY 30TH JULY
A boat comes round the anchorage on a morning selling fresh croissants etc so we had lovely fresh croissants for breakfast. It was a day of sorting out and cleaning ready for the family coming.

SATURDAY 31ST JULY
We went into the village by dinghy but the engine is playing up, we seem too have a fuel problem. We had another swim before having a barbecue.

SUNDAY 1ST AUGUST
Another new month and we are well into the ‘season’ now. Ashore again for fresh meat etc followed by a pre lunch swim. The wind increased this afternoon so we spent the time anchor watching, particularly other boats, the French are not good at anchoring and quite a few boats dragged their anchors.

MONDAY 2ND AUGUST
Isle de Porquerelle to Isle d’Embiez, 22.5m wind generally from the East.
We left Isle de Porquerelle after breakfast to head back to the Isle d’Embiez. There was no wind at first but it quickly filled in from astern so we sailed with the Genoa as there was a 1 metre swell which caused a problems with the (main) boom swinging across the boat - not good!. Unfortunately Ray felt unwell on the way with an upset stomach. We reached Embiez for a late lunch and anchored out of the swell in a small bay. Ray spent the afternoon below whilst I kept an eye on our anchor and some of the idiots around who were attempting to anchor. Eventually the wind died and the anchorage went glassy so we had our steaks barbecued.

TUESDAY 3RD AUGUST
Another lovely morning and the forecast is still good so we have decided to stay another night. We took the dinghy ashore and walked to the village and marina which are lovely. It was very hot and by the time we got back and to the boat we were exhausted and glad to get back into some shade.
After lunch Ray decided to snorkel and cleaned the bow thrusters whilst I enjoyed the antics of the French trying to anchor.

WEDNNESDAY 4TH AUGUST
Another day at anchor.

THURSDAY 5TH AUGUST
A terrible night! We were worried that the wind might increase as there were strong winds forecast for the West of Provence. The wind didn’t materialise but we had a lot f swell which slammed on the stern of the boat. In the end I went and slept up in the bow. It was a very overcast but warm morning which developed into strong thunderstorms which circled around us for most of the day. It started to rain just after lunch and rained on and off all afternoon after which it then cleared to a lovely sunny warm evening with a lovely sunset.

FRIDAY 6TH AUGUST
Up early as we had a restless night due to the swell. After breakfast we crossed over to Sanary, there were 2 boats on the reception pontoon and two at anchor off the harbour so we weren’t hopeful of a berth. I telephoned the capitanerie and he remembered me and said there shouldn’t be a problem and if we anchored off he should have a berth free at about 11.30a.m. We anchored but it seemed that very few boats left but at 11.45 he radioed and said he had a berth and sent someone out in a dinghy to lead us in. We are in the same berth as before which was a relief as it has a rope bowline instead of chain. The marinero was useless and didn’t offer any help but we eventually got tied up and the passerelle sorted before lunch. Most of the afternoon was spent cleaning the outside of the boat. We then went to the capitanerie and paid for 1 week and then had a much needed drink as it was extremely hot. We did some shopping and then called at the car park and got Paul a 2 week ticket which will allow him to come and go. We decided to eat out after which it was still extremely warm so we sat in the cockpit with a drink. Paul is hoping to arrive late morning tomorrow. It will be good to see them.

SATURDAY 7TH AUGUST
Paul and the family arrived safely just before lunch. It was fantastic to see them and amazing to see how much Andrew and Stephanie had grown. We spent the next two weeks enjoying their company, doing some day sailing, sightseeing ,visiting beaches etc. The weather was extremely hot whilst they were with us but we also had some high winds . The time they were with us just seemed to fly by and before we knew we were waving them goodbye but at least it won’t be too long before we see them again.

SUNDAY 22nd AUGUST
We left Sanary and sailed to the Poquerelles, sailing with just the genoa as the wind was dead astern. We had a really pleasant passage and anchored just after 6.00p.m. After our evening meal we watched a firework display off Hyeres way off in the distance.

MONDAY 23rd AUGUST
Isle de Porquerrelle to Port Cross, 9.3m, no wind to speak of.
It is certainly a different way of life, Monday morning and we were waiting in the warm sunshine for the croissant man to bring us our fresh bread and croissants. We then had a leisurely breakfast sitting in the cockpit watching the activities in the anchorage, certainly different to our ‘old’ Mondays.
We set off for Port Cros but had to motor most of the way. We were fortunate to pick up a visitors mooring in what is a delightful cove. We enjoyed watching all the comings and goings and the races to pick up vacated moorings. It seems like the wind is going to increase from the SW and although safe the mooring will be uncomfortable so it looks like a marina berth for tomorrow.

TUESDAY 24TH AUGUST
Port Cross to Bay of St. Tropez, 29.4m, wind East 5 to 6.
The forecast is for high winds offshore and light winds inshore so we decided to head for the Bay of St Tropez where there is good shelter in Caloubier Bay. We started off sailing in very cloudy conditions with some rain, the wind increased to force 5 to6 on the nose so we had to motor. Although slow it wasn’t unpleasant and it was warm. The sails came out again as the wind eased and we sailed the final part of the journey reaching Caloubier Bay for a late lunch. We found somewhere to anchor fairly easily as it was quite quiet with few boats at anchor. By the time lunch was ready we had blue skies and hot sunshine. We had a very pleasant afternoon watching the world go by particularly the super yachts going in and out of St Tropez.

WEDNESDAY 25TH AUGUST
A very windy morning so no chance of going into St Tropez, the wind increased steadily and the forecast is for a gale/near gale at sea. Our anchor dragged mid afternoon and after 3 attempts at re anchoring we decided to motor round the bay and see if there was better shelter off Port Grimaud as the holding and protection where we were was not good. We anchored off Port Grimaud in shallower water and a sandy bottom. The wind appeared to ease and we had our evening meal but then the wind steadily increased again. We decided to keep an anchor watch as the wind got stronger. It was a very long night and Ray never got to bed but the anchor held well. Then just as the sun came up there was a terrific gust and the anchor dragged. We were recording gusts of 45 knots and it was too windy to re anchor so we decided to motor round the Bay for a while as Monaco radio were saying the wind would soon ease.

THURSDAY 26TH AUGUST
Port Grimaud (up and down the Bay!) then to Frejus, 22.0m, wind NW8 gusting 10.
We motored for over an hour and the wind kept getting stronger with gusts of 50 knots. We decided it might be calmer at Frejus as St Maxime was difficult to get into and Monaco were saying St Raphael to Menton was calmer. We set off for Frejus and even though we were close to land I have never been so frightened on the boat. The wind was horrendous with the gusts laying us right over. Ray got soaked as the seas were short and steep coming over the side. We took water in the saloon as the hatch wasn’t closed properly. I think we were so tired after a night on anchor watch we just hadn’t prepared properly before taking on such a difficult passage in storm force winds. We eventually reached Frejus and requested assistance to berth as even in the marina the wind was strong and gusty. As it happened Ray handled the boat superbly and was complimented on his berthing. We were awfully glad to be tied up but the boat was a shambles and covered in salt. We had lunch and although we were tired we tidied up and then washed the salt off the boat. We were both exhausted so after a shower we went out to eat and had an early night.

FRIDAY 27TH AUGUST
After getting up late and doing some chores we walked along to St Raphael, it was good to stretch the legs but it was quite a walk. We enjoyed a pre dinner drink before returning to eat on board.

SATURDAY 28TH AUGUST
Frejus to Isle St. Marguerite, 18.9m, wind ESE 2-4
Another bright sunny morning and the temperature rose quickly. I did some last minute shopping whilst Ray prepared the boat for sea. We left Frejus and headed for Agay where we picked up a visitors mooring so we could have a lazy lunch. Agay brought back memories of when we used to stay here in a villa close by. We saw Letchwe a boat we knew from Almerimar and Alex and Judy came over in their dinghy for a chat. We then sailed to Isles de Lerins where we anchored off Isle St Marguerite just west of the fort. The forecast is for a calm night we just hope they are right. We had a barbecue but by 9.00p.m. it was dark and the temperature dropped so we couldn’t sit out as we normally do.

SUNDAY 29TH AUGUST
Isle St. Marguerite to Villefranche sur Mer, 19.8m, calm.
We lay quietly at anchor but were kept awake by the noise from a disco over in Cannes which went on until 4.00a.m.. We left the anchorage in lovely warm sunshine with no wind and motored to Villefranche sur Mer. We anchored in the bay just off the marina but it was in 18 metres so we had to put all the chain out and then rope. We also have a problem with the windlass as the sheer pin broke in the gales at St. Tropez. Ray did a temporary repair until we can get to a chandlers. Ray blew up the dinghy and we went ashore and headed to the capitanerie for a forecast. There is a SW 5/6 with gusts forecast for tomorrow so we decided to move into the marina for 2 nights as I am finding the uncertainty of the weather and anchoring very wearing. We had a drink on the way back to the boat and then headed into the marina where we managed to berth ok. When we went to book in we were told we may only have the berth we are in for 1 night and may have to move tomorrow – a real pain. The berth is not in the prettiest of places but at least it is secure. We had another barbecue on board and then wandered along to the lighthouse. The nights are certainly drawing in now although they are still warm. I am hoping to explore Villefranche tomorrow and have some time off the boat. I am ready for a break from the uncertainty of our lifestyle at the moment and I am looking forward to getting to Rome where we have a berth reserved for the winter.

MONDAY 30TH AUUGUST
A lovely quiet night. After breakfast and some chores we enjoyed wandering around Villefranche with a leisurely lunch ashore. We walked up to the Citadel and looked at the Art exhibitions which is a fantastic setting for the sculptures and paintings. We wandered back to the boat but it was good to have a day ashore.

TUESDAY 31ST AUGUST
Villefranche sur Mer to San Remo (Italy), 24.4m, wind ESE 2-3
The forecast was favourable so after breakfast we left Villefranche for San Remo, Italy, yet another country. We had to motor sail as the wind wasn’t as strong as forecast but there was quite a swell probably due to the strong winds off Corsica. The coastline was lovely as we passed Cap Ferrat, Monaco and Menton, all places we have visited in the past. We finally crossed the border into Italy and Ray took down our French courtesy flag and raised our Italian one. We arrived in San Remo just after 1.00p.m. in extremely hot weather. We tied up at the fuel berth as we decided to fill up with fuel before going to the capitanerie who said a berth was no problem and that the fuel berth would reopen at 2.30. After taking on fuel we radioed the capitanerie as requested and they sent a marinero to meet us and show us to a berth, he also took our lines and handed us the guide lines, all very professional. We walked ashore. San Remo has some amazing mediaeval areas which we wandered round, we had a drink (cheaper than France). We enjoyed the atmosphere and the language, so very different from France. Everyone we have met so far have been helpful and friendly.

WEDNESDAY 1ST SEPTEMBER
San Remo to Finale Ligure, 40.7m, wind NE4
The start of another month and I suppose the start of Autumn although it does not feel like it. However the nights are drawing in and the evenings are cooler but the days have been as hot as ever. We decided to head up the coast but before leaving we walked up to town and bought an Italian sim card for the phone.
The forecast is variable 3 or 4 so we left San Remo at about 10.00a.m. and headed for Alassio. We part sailed and part motored as the wind kept changing. When we arrived at Alassio Ray radioed but they did not have a berth as there are works in the harbour. I then telephoned Loano and Portobello but both were full so we headed for Finale Ligure who I couldn’t contact on the phone. The sea was lumpy and the anchorages around were very exposed. We pulled into Finale Ligure to be met and told they were full. I asked if we could go on the fuel berth, eventually after a lot of haggling they said we could return at 7.00p.m. when it closed. It was just after 5 so we anchored in the bay in an awful swell. Eventually at 6.45 we put on fenders and went alongside. He said we must leave by 8.00 in the morning but we were so grateful for a berth we would have agreed to leave earlier if they had required it. We were very surprised he would not take any payment. We had our evening meal and then an early night as I think the stress had made me extremely tired. The wind died and the bay where we had been anchored went lovely and calm so we would have been ok at anchor(Sod’s Law!). During the night however there was a strong land breeze which woke us and kept us awake!
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THURSDAY 2ND SEPTEMBER
Finale Ligure to Santa Margherita Ligure, 45.2m, wind all over the place.
Up before 7 to a cloudless sky and a force 3 to 4 from the NW. We left Finale Ligure at 7.30 and headed across the Bay of Genoa to Santa Margherita Ligure, we were able to sail the first part of the journey and stormed along at 7 ½ knots but then the wind died and eventually we had to motor. The coastline once we closed was beautiful. We nosed into Portfino which is lovely and then continued up the bay to Santa Margherita. We stood off whilst I phoned the ormeggatorri who came out and allocated us a berth and helped us in. We can only stay on this berth for one night and will have to move to another berth tomorrow. Santa Margherita is a lovely town although expensive at 8E for a beer and a coke. We decided to open the champagne to celebrate our arrival in Italy (a bit late!). It was another extremely hot day and was still hot when we went out to eat, we found a very pleasant trattoria in one of the side streets and had a lovely meal and ate far too much. It was still hot when we got back to the boat so we sat out until almost midnight hoping it would cool.

FRIDAY 3RD SEPTEMBER
Another hot morning. We moved the boat to another berth as instructed but we have to lie to our own anchor. I didn’t get the anchor down quick enough so it hasn’t bit properly but there is no wind and we are between two boats so should be ok. The downside of the berth is it is further down the harbour and this suffers from wash when the power boats come in and out. We did some chores and shopping and then had a barbecue as there was no wind and it was still hot.

SATURDAY 4TH SEEPTEMBER
After breakfast we took the ferry to Portofino. It is a beautiful place and obviously caters for the jet set with shops such as Hermes, Cartier, Louis Vuitton etc,etc.
It was also expensive in the bars but we enjoyed wandering around and climbed up to Castle Brown which was well worth the effort as it gave fantastic views over the bay of Portofino, as well as good views of the top decks of the huge powerboats. We had a lovely lunch of seafood salad followed by ice cream covered with hot coffee which I found delicious but Ray would have preferred his separately. We returned to Santa Margherita and bought some champagne for our wedding anniversary tomorrow. We decided to eat out (again) but found it difficult to get a table as obviously Saturday is a very busy night. Eventually we found an inside table with air – con and had a very good meal of Pasta with prawns and asparagus, delicious. Once back on board it was still very hot and noisy. There was a band playing across the bay but it was so loud we thought it was just along the pier, also there was the noise from all the Italians walking up and down the quayside. We eventually gave up and went to bed.

SUNDAY 5TH SEPTEMBER
Sannta Margherita Liigure to Chiavari, 4.7m, Calm.
Our 40th wedding anniversary. It seems impossible that we have been married for 40 years although some things are as clear as if they happened yesterday but others are just hazy recollections. Unfortunately I didn’t feel too well when we got up and when we got the forecast of rising winnds we decided to move to a marina as our anchor isn’t embedded too well. We left harbour which wasn’t too difficult, we were concerned that the anchor might be fouled. We motored to Chiavari just 4 ½ miles along the coast so we were there well before lunch. We were helped in by a marinero who made a big meal out of what should have been a simple exercise and he insisted he got on the boat to help. Once tied up we walked around the marina and I found a hairdresser who fitted me in to have my hair cut. We had champagne in the cockpit before going out to eat at a Brazilian restaurant. We had a very good meal and it was very different, they kept coming round with different meat on skewers accompanied by lots of different salads and vegetables and as usual we ate far too much. It was a lovely warm evening but it brought the bugs out and I ended up with 4 bites. This was not the way we envisaged celebrating our anniversary but we will celebrate properly at a later date. We realised that today was the first time we have headed South for a long time as we have steadily been heading Northwards since entering the Med but now our journey takes us South again.

MONDAY 6TH SEPTEMBER
A partially cloudy morning but still very warm. Chiavari is a very pleasant town with colonnaded streets which are lovely and cool. We found a market for fruit and veg and then a butchers but my Italian is very poor and so I am struggling.. We had lunch on board and then spent the afternoon cleaning the boat.

TUESDAY 7TH SEPTEMBER
Chiavari to Viareggio, 50.3m, wind ENE 3 veering to SW2.
We left Chiavari after breakfast to head for Viareggio. The weather was ideal and we managed to sail for most of the way. The scenery was spectacular particularly the Cinque Torre which are 5 mountain towns which were once only accessible by sea and weren’t linked to each other. We arrived at Viareggio to find the marina was full so we had to tie up against the wall of the breakwater, this was no easy task but a local helped us but he didn’t know what he was doing so the ropes ended up a real cats cradle but we were glad of the help. Ray eventually got ashore and sorted us out and I telephoned the next marina for tomorrow night and they have a berth thank goodness. I find the uncertainty of berths in Italy really worrying and get quite anxious as on this occasion there wasn’t even an alternative anchorage.

WEDNESDAY 8TH SEPTEMBER
Viareggio to Rosignano, 31.5m, wind SSE2 veering NW3.
Not a good night, the fishing boats coming in and out kept waking us up. We were up at 7 and left Viareggio heading for a new marina just South of Livorno. There was no wind and the morning was cooler but sunny. The wind filled in and we sailed for a short time but then the wind headed us and we motor sailed with just the main. Eventually the wind changed and we unfurled the genoa as the wind steadily increased. By the time we reached Rosignano it was very gusty and berthing was a nightmare. The marina was half empty and at first they allocated us a berth where the wind was just blowing us off so we asked for a berth on the opposite side of the pontoon, they gave us one right down in the corner with no room to manoeuvre and a very narrow berth. We eventually got in but they have no idea. They think you can park a boat like a car! Rosignano is not somewhere I’d recommend to visit but it provided us with a stopover. Unfortunately I have developed a urine infection so we went to the pharmacy for drugs but it was closed for the holidays. I had some old tablets on board so took one of them with plenty of water so we will see what happens.

THUURSDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER
Rosignano to Portiferraio on Elba, 37.5m, wind NE2.
Up early to leave for Elba but unfortunately when Ray released the front ropes the boat shot back and hit the pontoon causing a gouge on the stern, needless to say he is not happy. The wind was on the nose again so we motor sailed but then it died completely until we were close to Elba. We arrived around 1.30 and were meet by an ormeggatorri who showed us a berth and took our lines – all very professional. We were pleased to find tailed ropes plus water and electricity as they have upgraded the harbour. It was extremely hot in port so we put up the awning before having a late lunch. We went to pay our dues and a wander around Portferraio. It is a lovely town with steep narrow streets the houses are painted in cream, pink and ochre with green shutters. We couldn’t find a supermarket and the pharmacy was closed for holidays so we went back to the boat to shower before going out to eat.The meal was ok but could have been better, we wandered back to the boat and all the shops were still open at 11 o clock so we sat in the cockpit with a drink until it went quiet.

FRIDAY 10TH SEPTEMBER
Had a terrible night, cystitis back worse than ever, at 7 Ray went for a taxi to take me to the hospital. I was seen immediately and given a prescription for very strong anti biotics as I have a serious infection and was also told to rest. Unfortunately we couldn’t find a taxi to get back to the boat so had to walk. Ray got the prescription which I took immediately and spent the day in bed but by lunchtime the tablets started to work and just knocked me out. We went across the road for a pizza which was excellent and cheap but I couldn’t wait to get back to the boat to lie down.

SATURDAY 11TH SEPTEMBER
A lot better today but the tablets are still knocking me out. We walked up to Napoleons villa stopping for a coffee on the way back and then I spent all afternoon in bed. We went to the restaurant over the road and had another good meal. Ray has arranged a hire car for tomorrow to explore the island.

SUNDAY 12TH SEPTEMBER
We collected the car at 9, the day started cloudy with a light shower but quickly cleared. We toured the Island which is very beautiful with some charming unspoilt mountain villages and lovely beaches. We had lunch at Marciana which was our favourite village. I chose wild boar which tasted great but was as tough as old boots, but the views were spectacular. After lunch I was pretty exhausted so we took a short tour stopping at Marciana marina before heading back to Portoferraio.

MONDAY 13TH SEEPTEMBER
I am still very tired so had an easy day. We went and paid our berth in the afternoon as we were hoping to leave the next day but when we got the forecast a SW6 increasing to gale force wind was forecast so we will need to stay longer. We ate on board and then wandered around the harbour to see what boats were in. It is still hot and humid.

To see if the gale materialises you will have to wait for our next instalment, by which time we should be in Rome where we have reserved a berth to winter at Ostia, only 20km from Rome. We only have about 120 miles to go but the way the winds are at the moment goodness knows when we will get there, they aren’t expecting us until October so we have plenty of time. We are planning on being back in the UK sometime in November but we will send another report before then.

Best Regards

Sandra and Ray

Stratagem

The Balearic Islands and Spanish Coast

As promised this is the next instalment of our journey. We decided we would stay on Mallorca and explore some of the small anchorages

SATURDAY 1ST MAY
We are still inn Porto Colom and we got up to another gorgeous morning. Ray inflated thee dinghy so that we could go ashore for groceries and a walk. We walked round the harbour to the main part of town. It is a lovely unspoilt area with local people going about their everyday tasks.
There was still a lot of swell coming into the harbour but we lay quite well and had a pleasant lunch in the cockpit. The swell started to die in the afternoon and the water became glassy so hopefully we will have a better night.

SUNDAY 2ND MAY
We had a nice quiet night but awoke to a hazy morning which quickly became cloudy but was fortunately still warm. We walked around the headland where there are some hotels but we weren’t impressed. It is not as nice as the harbour and old town. We had a lovely lunch in a little restaurant by the harbour but it started to rain as we returned to the boat so a siesta became the order of the day (it’s funny how these siestas have become part of our life?).

MONDAY 3rd MAY
We had a terrific thunderstorm last night with huge flashes of lightning. The storm lasted for ages and it was followed by very heavy rain which persisted all night. We awoke to a very wet, black and windy morning so we decided to clean the inside of the boat which took all morning. We spent the afternoon perusing the pilot books and charts planning what to do next. During the late afternoon we started rolling again so there must be some swell out at sea after the storm.

TUESDAY 4TH MAY
A terrible night due to violent rolling meant we hardly slept. We couldn’t get the local forecast on the radio this morning but there were lots of black clouds around even though the sun does keep trying to come out. We went ashore for fresh bread and a cup of coffee but by the time we had finished it was raining and we got soaked returning to the boat. I decided to prepare a curry to cheer us up. The clouds started to lift by early evening but it was still quite windy with a gale forecast for during the night. We spoke to Roger and Carol Sallis who are staying at Cala Longa and we have arranged to meet them tomorrow.

WEDNESDAY 5TH MAY
It is one year today since we left Woolverstone for the start of our ‘adventure’. It seems so long ago as so much has happened since we left. Unfortunately the weather today does not reflect the reason we came to the Med. It is grey, damp and windy and this is the longest period of bad weather we have experienced since arriving in the Med 10 months ago. All in all it has been an excellent year with many memorable moments. Perhaps the two most memorable were the morning last year when we sailed down the River Orwell leaving Woolverstone behind not knowing what lay ahead. The second was sailing up the Straits of Gibraltar and then sitting looking at ‘the rock’ drinking champagne to celebrate our arrival. There are just so many memories, I am so pleased I have kept this journal as it would be so easy to forget some of them.
Today we went ashore and met Roger and Carol and had a lovely lunch with them before going to their apartment for coffee. On our way back to the boat they kindly took us to the supermarket to collect some ‘heavy’ supplies (i.e. stuff that comes in bottles!).
The weather has been very mixed today with sunshine and showers and still quite windy. When will this wind die as we are really ready to leave Porto Colom and hope to do so tomorrow.

THURSDAY 6th MAY
It blew a gale all night and we were up just after 1.00a.m. taking the oars off the dinghy before we lost them in the awful conditions. It was an awful night with gale force wind which persisted all next morning. At least it was bright and sunny even though the wind was cool. There were even “white horses” in the water within the harbour so we didn’t attempt to go ashore. A Beneteau 50 provided some entertainment as he attempted to anchor and then berth at the public quay. The highlight of the day was a beautiful sunset which we watched from the cockpit, let’s hope for good weather tomorrow.

FRIDAY 7TH MAY
(Porto Colom to Porto Cristo, 9.7 miles. Wind NW4)
A better morning, with some cloud but warm with patchy sunshine, the forecast was ok so we left Porto Colom and headed for Porto Cristo which was just over 9 miles along the coast. The wind was on thee nose [surprise surprise] and there was a metre of swell but not uncomfortable. We found a place on the public quay in PortoCristo and we made a good job of berthing which was just as well as we had quite an audience. We are hoping we can moor here when John comes latter this month as boats are allowed 7 consecutive nights only. The only downside is the number of people sauntering by and staring into the boat. Although we could moor bows to as the pontoon is high enough it is easier to walk ashore from the stern. I found a laundry thank goodness and it will be ready tomorrow all dried and folded. We met a British couple on board a Westerly yacht who invited us on board for afternoon tea which was very pleasant.. After a wander around town we found a pleasant restaurant and enjoyed our meal in the last of the evening sun which was still very warm. As soon as the sun went down the temperature plummeted and we actually had to put the heating on when we got back to the boat.

SATURDAY 8TH MAY
A cool sunny morning which we spent cleaning the boat then a lazy lunch and siesta (well everywhere closes). We had a long walk to the marina for a pre dinner drink and then walked round to the other side of the quay to the beach and headland. The beach is good and there is a pleasant promenade and some interesting caves but it started to rain so it was then a quick dash back to the boat.

SUNDAY 9TH MAY
Another lovely sunny day. Roger and Carol (Sallis) came on board for drinks and then we went for lunch together, which was very enjoyable. After they left we decided we needed to walk off the effects of the meal and walked round the headland enjoying the last of the warm evening sun.

MONDAY 10th MAY
(Porto Cristo to Pollensa, 35.6miles.Wind started ESE 3to4 but veered right around to NE2)
After provisioning the boat and filling up with water we left for Puerto Pollensa. We had a wonderful sail as far as the Bay of Alcudia when the wind died and we had to motor the rest of the way. We dropped anchor just to the west of Puerto Bonaire. The bay of Pollensa is truly beautiful, it is surrounded by high wooded mountains with lots of calas in which to anchor. Ray Barbecued our evening meal and we ate it looking at the beautiful scenery thinking how lucky we are. The anchorage was very calm and sheltered but the forecast for tomorrow is for NE 5/6 so in the morning we will have to move to an anchorage on the opposite side of the bay for protection.

TUESDAY 11TH MAY
We had a very calm night but we awoke to rain and very threatening clouds but no wind. We decided to move immediately after breakfast when there was a lull in the rain. We motored to a sheltered anchorage just behind a headland and we had just laid the anchor when the rain started and the wind increased but we seemed to be protected. The anchorage is beside a seaplane landing strip so there is plenty of entertainment when the planes take off and land. They seem as if they will never manage to get off the water, they look so heavy and cumbersome. The wind increased as the day wore on and reached gale force late afternoon. Unfortunately at around 5.00p.m. we dragged our anchor and kept dragging it so had to lift it. We motored further into the bay where it looked quieter and where there were some empty moorings, after a couple of attempts I managed to hook a mooring and we struggled to get tied on but managed in the end. It didn’t look too substantial but there was little chance of anchoring and it would have been impossible to manoeuvre in the marina due to the strength of the wind so had to hope for the best. We spent a very restless evening as the wind didn’t abate and the forecast was for it to continue for another 24 hours.

WEDNESDAY 12TH MAY
What a terrible night! We slept in the fore cabin so that we would hear if anything happened to the mooring, but to say we slept is a joke. We listened to the mooring ‘snatching’ from one side to the other accompanied by heavy rain. At 6.30 a.m. we gave up and decided we would be better in the saloon, the wind had increased again so it was going to be a worrying day. The wind continued all day with gusts of 40mph but at last at 4.00p.m. it started to decrease. We spent the day reading and catnapping trying to catch up on our lost sleep.

THURSDAY 13TH MAY
(Local, 14.2 miles. Wind light and variable)
A quiet night thank goodness. After breakfast we took the dinghy ashore and bought fresh bread etc, we also went to look at the public quay. We saw June and Tim from the Westerly yacht we had met in Porto Cristo and chatted to them for a while. Once back on board we dropped the mooring and headed into the bay to explore some of the calas. It was a beautiful day with very little wind so we hoisted the sails and ghosted along to Formentor. When we got there we found there was a strong downdraught from the mountains so we headed for Cala Murta where we dropped anchor and had lunch. It was a beautiful Cala with steep sided cliffs and a tiny beach at the head, there was just one other yacht and a small motorboat anchored close inshore, very peaceful. Later in the afternoon we lifted our anchor and went to explore the next Cala but the wind started to increase so we headed over to Bonaire. We found there was no protection there from the swell which was working its way into the bay so we headed back to anchor in the place behind the lighthouse where we had dragged in the gale. We were in very shallow water but it was very sheltered. Ray barbecued and we just sat and watch the sun drop behind the mountains, the scenery really is magnificent.

FRDAY 14TH MAY
Another quiet night, thank goodness. After breakfast we took the engine off the dinghy and stowed the dinghy before motoring into the public quay in Pollensa. We found a space and there were willing hands to help us in, which is one of the nice things about sailing everyone helps one another. We filled in the usual forms and took them to the port office collecting bread and yet another adaptor for the water tap on the way(why is it that each marina-or quay has a different water tap?). We had lunch in the cockpit and then decided it was time to defrost the fridge and freezer whilst we were connected to the mains for electric power. I decided to treat myself to a manicure and pedicure, oh what bliss to be pampered, When I got back Ray had cleaned the dinghy and hosed the boat off. We went to eat at a nearby restaurant recommended by the manicurist but they only had a table at the back near the kitchen so we declined and booked for tomorrow night instead. We went for a cheap Chinese instead.


SATURDAY 15TH MAY
Up to a bright sunny morning after a poor night (due to indigestion from Chinese meal). After chores we decided to walk to Cala San Vincente which is through a mountain pass and takes about just over an hour according to the tourist guide. The sky had clouded over so we packed jumpers and waterproofs. It was a lovely walk over what in reality was the bed of a dried up mountain stream which was rough going in places. We climbed steadily and had wonderful views over the bay, we then dropped over the other side where the track was better and the going was easier as it was downhill into Cala San Vincente. We stopped for a very pleasant lunch and it started raining as we were eating so we just made lunch leisurely. Once the rain had stopped we walked around the headland before catching the bus back to Pollensa, we had intended to walk both ways but felt that parts of the track would be pretty lethal when wet although I think the wine at lunch might have had something to do with the decision. When we arrived back at the boat there was a big catamaran next to us but they are leaving tomorrow. We had an excellent meal with good service at the restaurant on the quay. They had also reserved us one of the best tables with a lovely view over the bay. A very enjoyable day.

SUNDAY 16TH MAY
A beautiful morning. After breakfast we caught the bus to the old town of Pollensa some 3 miles inland from Puerto Pollensa. It is a beautiful place with lots of ancient churches and buildings, we climbed the 365 Calvary steps up to the little church which overlooks the town The views from the top are spectacular. There is also a market on Sundays so I took the opportunity to buy some wonderful fresh fruit and veg direct from the growers, there were also live snails for sale but I gave them a miss. We had a pleasant tapas lunch before catching the bus back to Port. Before our evening meal we had Tim and June on board for drinks plus Jack and Tanya from another Beneteau berthed beside us rounding off a lovely day.

MONDAY 17TH MAY
Another hot morning with breakfast in the cockpit. We intended to leave and anchor in a Cala overnight but Tanya invited us on board and by the time we left them it was time for lunch so we decided to stay another night. Ray decided to do some odd jobs that ended up needing my assistance even though I intended having a siesta. We then walked up to town for pre dinner drinks and watch the paseo.

TUESDAY 18TH MAY
(Puerto Pollensa to Cala es Calo, 38.2 miles. WindNE going SE 2or 3)
We left Puerto Pollensa and motored (no wind again) around the North coast past Cala Formentor and Figueres and anchored in Cala San Vincente for lunch. We were the only boat there. On our way into the bay we saw two dolphins, it looked like mother and baby, I think they must have become separated from the pod as we couldn’t see any others around. The scenery on this coast is stunning with huge cliffs and small calas, it’s a pity we can’t stay overnight but there is too much swell. After lunch we had a lovely sail to Cala es Calo which is a small cala on the South side of Alcudia bay. It was a beautiful evening and was quiet and peaceful. We stayed out until dark watching a spectacular sunset. It was a lovely day just sightseeing by boat

WEDNESDAY 19TH MAY
(Cala es Calo to Cala Molto, 8.5miles. Wind SE 2)
We had a very quiet night although I didn’t sleep well, I think I am always listening for changes in the boat sounds when we are at anchor. We woke to a fantastic morning with another good forecast so we raised the anchor but had a problem, what we thought had been a sandy bottom was rocks with the chain wrapped around a huge boulder. Ray managed to hand crank the windlass unravelling us and eventually raising the anchor, what a relief. We then motorsailed South to Cala Molto. This is a beautiful cala with crystal clear water and a sandy bottom which makes the water appear a beautiful turquoise. We anchored and had lunch, as the cala is quite remote there were lots of nudists sunbathing on the rocks. It became very quiet as people left, Ray barbecued some steaks and we had the cala to ourselves as we ate our evening meal.

THURSDAY 20TH MAY
(Cala Molto to Porto Cristo, 15.5 miles. Wind SE 3)
John arrives this evening and we are looking forward to seeing them tomorrow. Another hot sunny day and we were up early for a change so after breakfast we weighed anchor and headed for Porto Cristo. We had the sails up for most of the way but had to motor sail as there was so little wind. We reached Porto Cristo just before mid-day and there was plenty of space on the public quay. We moored up next to the German boat we were next to last time. Once settled we went and booked a hire car for tomorrow. We ate on board as we will probably eat out a lot whilst John is here.

FRIDAY 21ST MAY
Up early and were disappointed to see quite a bit of cloud but fortunately this burnt off. We collected our car and then went to meet John. It took us a while to find his hotel as the one we had seen from the sea was not the one we thought, but eventually we found it. \it was great to see them, Peter has grown so much and wasn’t shy which is surprising since we haven’t seen him since Christmas. We had a lovely relaxing day with them catching up on news and gossip.
Roger Sallis phoned us and we are seeing them tomorrow evening for a meal after we have been to Palma.

SATURDAY 22ND MAY
A cloudy start to the day, we headed for Palma as Ray wanted to buy some ‘things’ for the boat. We bought some of the bits at the chandlery and then walked to El Cortes Ingles (a Dept Store) to see if they had an SSB radio. We decided to follow the bus route which took us ages, it was much further than we thought and when we got there they didn’t have one. We walked back through the old town which was much quicker and by then it was quite hot. The cathedral was closed so we decided to head back to Porto Cristo stopping at a Carrefours hypermarket on the way to stock up whilst we had the car.
We met Roger and Carol and went to a super restaurant in Calonge, it had a great atmosphere with huge wood burning fire where they cooked some of the food. We had a very enjoyable evening but ate too much as usual.

SUNDAY 23RD MAY
A better morning with bright sunshine, we did some chores before John and Alex arrived by glass bottom boat from Cala Bona. We had lunch in the cockpit and then spent the afternoon on the beach as there was too much swell to take Peter for his first sail and it doesn’t look hopeful for tomorrow.

MONDAY 24TH MAY
A very hazy start to the day. We helped a British boat named Persistence to berth before setting off to see John and family at their hotel. It was quite windy by the time we arrived and we found it cool sitting around the swimming pool. Ray and John managed to get into the water and Peter enjoyed playing in his inflatable boat but Alex and I chickened out. We walked along the seafront and had a very pleasant lunch. The afternoon turned cloudy so we went to look at Cala Ratjada which we had heard was quite nice. It was full of Germans and not as good as we expected, it was very ‘touristy’ but we enjoyed the journey and our stroll around. We dropped the family off at their hotel and returned to the boat very tired.

TUESDAY 25TH MAY
A cloudy start and the boat was doing a lot of surging against the quay as there was quite a swell running so we weren’t able to take Peter for his sail. We collected them from S’illot as they had taken the tourist train along the coast from Cala Bona. We had lunch on board as Peter really enjoys being on the boat. We then walked to the Club Nautico for a drink looking at the boats on the way.

WEDNESDAY 26th MAY
It rained all night and we got up to a very drizzly day. John and Alex were souvenir shopping so we went to Valldemossa. It was a lovely journey and the sun came out just as we arrived. We visited the monastery where Chopin and George Sand stayed and then wandered around the town, both of which were delightful. We then went to Puerto Soller which was a scenic drive through the mountains. We had a light lunch before heading back to Porto Cristo via Incas. We stopped at an olive wood factory but the prices were a rip off so we didn’t buy anything. We arrived back at the boat to find it was surging worse than ever so we adjusted the ropes as best we could. We then went to meet John and family to have a final drink and say goodbye as they leave early tomorrow morning. I hated saying goodbye it is the one down side of our lifestyle. We went for another meal with Roger and Carol to cheer me up. We went to a restaurant at Cala D’Or which was very good and had an excellent meal and thoroughly enjoyed their company. On returning to the boat we noticed Jack and Tanya had arrived in Blank Canvas so we will catch up with them tomorrow.

THURSDAY 27TH MAY
We awoke to a beautiful blue sky and sunshine, it is such a shame John goes home today. We spent the morning cleaning the boat then after lunch we visited Arta which has a beautiful church and Calvari. It is a lovely unspoilt town which it would seem visitors have yet to discover. We did some shopping as it was the last opportunity before taking the car back. After dropping the car off we went for drinks with Tanya and Jack on Blank Canvas and they gave us some info on marinas on the Costa Brava.

FRIDAY 28TH MAY
(Porto Cristo to Mahon in Menorca, 51.1 miles. Wind started variable, through East then SE and finally SW 3 to 4)
Another bright sunny morning, we prepared the boat for sea, we left Porto Cristo at 9.30 heading for Mahon on Menorca. We motor sailed on lovely calm seas, we saw very few boats and reached Mahon just before 6.00p.m.. We decided to anchor in Cala Taulera which is just in the entrance of the harbour, it was very sheltered with just 2 other yachts at anchor. It is a beautiful spot, we enjoyed a drink before barbecuing. It was a lovely evening and we sat out until the sun went down.

SATURDAY 29TH MAY
We slept well as the anchorage was dark calm and quiet. Another gorgeous morning, Ray blew up the dinghy and we did some exploring. It became very hot so we relaxed and enjoyed the scenery and watching the occasional boat that passed through the Cala.

SUNDAY 30TH MAY
Another gorgeous morning I did some sewing and watched the boats come in and out of the anchorage. It was busy with lots of small local boats with families who were having picnics on the beach. We took the dinghy ashore and went for a walk before returning for our evening meal by which time all the local boats had left.

MONDAY 31ST MAY
A very warm but cloudy morning, we decided to motor around the harbour and find somewhere to moor so that we could visit the town. We picked up a mooring off Isla Clementina which only costs 10E per night but the marinero said we can only stay one night. We then took the dinghy ashore and walked miles for shopping calling at the chandlers on the way. We then found out there is a much quicker way to the main town from the harbour. We had lunch on board and were visited by Roberto who delivers fresh bread and croissants every morning. He gave us a free loaf as ‘it was not fresh as it was baked at 6 o clock this morning’. We had a lazy afternoon then changed and went ashore to wander, the town is lovely but very steep on the hillside. Ray was pleased as we found a shop that had his sailing magazines. We ate at the floating restaurant, the food was very good but the service was terrible. At least the dinghy engine worked when we headed back as it had been giving problems all day.

TUESDAY 1ST JUNE
A very hot bright morning. We went in the dinghy to speak to Tony and Pearl on Barolo and Sue and Mike on Persistence who were moored on Isla Clementina. We invited them on board for a drink this evening. The marinero came along and I asked him if it was possible to stay on the mooring for one more night, he said the boat was due back but if we waited 10 minutes there would be space on the Island for us. We put our fenders and ropes on and got in easily with the help of the marinero pushing the boats aside on both sides. We had thought there was no room but there was. The Island is one of two large square floating pontoons complete with park benches lamp posts and barbecue to which approx 24 yachts can moor. We then took some laundry to the Club Maritimo, it is a service laundry but very expensive, 37E for 2 loads to be washed, dried and folded (not even ironed). It was all bed linen and towels which I refuse to wash by hand so we grudgingly left it. We had Pearl, Tony, Sue and Mike for drinks which was very enjoyable but it meant we ate very late, far too late to Barbie. It seems that strong winds are coming in from the Golfe de Lyon so we may be here for a few days.

WEDNESDAY 2nd JUNE
Another beautiful morning, we got up early so that we could clean the hull whilst there are no boats either side of us (they left late yesterday). It was exhausting but the boat looks much better and only took just over 2 hours. We were going ashore for lunch but by the time I had showered and washed my hair I couldn’t be bothered. After lunch and a siesta we went ashore to see if I could find a hairdresser to cut my hair, we were unsuccessful. We then went for the laundry and looked at the forecast at Club Maritimo, it looks awful until midnight Friday so we may hire a car to see something of the Island.

THURSDAY 3RD JUNE
A sunny but very windy morning, the wind is blowing straight into the cockpit making it impossible to sit out. We did some outstanding chores and Ray tackled various ‘electric’ jobs around the boat. He gave up on sorting the generator as it will have to be a winter job. We went ashore and booked a hire car for tomorrow. We walked around Cala Figuera to stretch our legs. We went and had drinks with Mike and Sue on Persistence before eating on board.

FRIDAY 4TH JUNE
We were up early to collect the car, the weather was still windy but cloudy and warm. We left Mahon and drove through very pleasant green rolling countryside to Ciutedella which was once the Capital of Menorca. We managed to park just outside the old town and found ourselves in the marketplace where we stopped for coffee. It is a brilliant daily market of fish, meat and vegetables, all in exceptionally clean open sided buildings with wonderful fresh produce. We then wandered around the old town where there are some beautiful old buildings. We wandered as far as the port and then explored some of the back streets before having another drink in the Placa Nova, a very large central square with lots of open air bars and restaurants. We then motored to Cala Santandria just 5 km South of Ciutedella. It really is stunning and we found a pleasant little restaurant overlooking the Cala to have our lunch. This is definitely somewhere to return to by boat.
We then went to the North of the Island to Cala Morel, a fantastic cala with wonderful rock formations which have been eroded by the wind. We walked out to the headland marvelling at some of the strange rock shapes. This would be a great cala to visit by boat but only in calm and settled conditions.
We then went to Menorcas highest point El Torro. This was a ride up a small mountain with lots of hairpin bends but it was worth it for the view from the top.
We could see the whole of the Island, it was spectacular. There is also a monastery at the top and a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was very beautiful and well cared for.
Once down the mountain we headed South again to Cala Galdana, this was another beautiful cala with steep sided cliffs and a beach of fine white sand. There is a nice board walk along the river and some nice walks through some pine woods to the headland. We had a drink and then headed back to Mahon as we were invited for pre dinner drinks on board ‘Barolo’ with Tony and Pearl. It was 8.30 before we got back on board to change to go for a meal ashore. We went to a Greek restaurant and ate far too much but it was very good. We slowly walked back to the dinghy pontoon, it was a lovely night with almost a full moon and no wind.


SATURDAY 5TH JUNE
A poor night due to too much food and then we were disturbed by the ferries and a cruise ship entering the harbour so we were up early for a change.
We were going to leave but the wind increased and the marinero said it would be force 5/6 so we decided to wait and see what developed. We decided to go ashore as the wind had increased however just as I locked up Martin and Linda on Great Sensation came in. This was a boat that had over wintered with us in Almerimar and who we first met last year in Portugal. We helped them in and then sat drinking and catching up on gossip, it was then too late to go ashore as the shops would be closed. We spent a lazy afternoon and then Linda and Martin and Tony and Pearl came on board for drinks. It was 9.30 when they left but it was still very warm and the wind had died so we had a barbecue.

SUNDAY 6TH JUNE
(Mahon to Cala Grao, 7.9 miles. Wind N 2 or 3)
We were up early (again) too a lovely sunny and calm morning. After breakfast we prepared the boat for sea and left Mahon at 9.00a.m. We motored to Cala Grao just beside Iisla Colom. It is a beautiful anchorage but being Sunday was quite busy. We anchored easily and could have got further into the bay except for a small boat at anchor, they decided to move anyway as we had disturbed their nude sunbathing. There were only 2 other yachts who came in later but there were lots of small local boats going in and out the bay but this eased at lunch/siesta time. It was extremely hot so we decided to leave going ashore until late afternoon when it was cooler. We explored Es Grao, which is just a small village, we then explored the cala in the dinghy, the water was crystal clear and felt quite warm. We returned to the boat and had yet another barbecue.

I feel this passage report is getting long and boring so have decided to do a summary of the last month.

We continued our exploration of Menorca and enjoyed anchoring in some beautiful isolated calas some of which were quite tricky to get into. Menorca proved to be our favourite Island with little high rise development and lots of deserted beaches and calas. The weather continued to be hot but quite windy It is not known as the windy isle for nothing! We eventually had to put up the boom tent to provide us with some much needed extra shade. We also meet a number of friends in Menorca so our social life was good catching up on what people had been doing.
We eventually left Menorca on thee 20th June and headed back to thee bay of Pollensa on Mallorca where we spent a night at anchor in Cala del Pinar. We forgot it was Fathers Day again until we had phone calls from the family. We left Mallorca just before dawn and sailed to Port Olympico, Barcelona, some109 miles too the northwest in light winds which blew from every point of the compass! We had a great sail but the marineros struggled to find us a berth so we ended up on the waiting pontoon at thee varadero (boatyard). They managed to find us a berth for the next night and then we moved to Port Vell which is right in thee centre of Barcelona. I loved it there as there was so much to do and see, Ray wasn’t so keen as there was a lot of dirt in the atmosphere which of course ended up on thee boat. We stayed a week doing lots of sightseeing although we could only manage mornings as the days were so hot (33o) I enjoyed it so much that we asked about a winter berth but there is a waiting list so we will continue with our original plan and head towards Rome.
We left Barcelona on the 28th June and headed up the coast to thee Costa Brava sailing slowly all day as there was little wind and it was more pleasant to be at sea as it was so hot but anchoring in small calas at night. We are now on a visitors mooring sheltered by the Islas Las Medas just off Estartit as we have had strong winds since yesterday morning (1stt July). We are hoping the wind will abate tonight and we can move on to the Bay of Rosas and then Cadaques before we cross the Golfe de Lyon into France.

Best Wishes too you all

Ray and Sandra
Stratagem
Spain

Spring in Almerimar (Spain)

We thought it was about time to send an update on what we have been up to since returning to Spain. We have carried on doing some sightseeing, visiting Ronda where we stayed in the Parador, which sits on the edge of the gorge and has magnificent views over the surrounding countryside. We were so close to Gibraltar we decided to take the opportunity to visit the excellent chandlery and of course Safeway to stock up on some English necessities like teabags, mustard, branston pickle etc. On the way back we stopped overnight in Marbella before returning to Almerimar by the coast road stopping at Salobrena for a very pleasant lunch sitting outside in warm sunshine and overlooking the sea.

At the beginning of February we had Stratagem lifted out of the water to have her bottom cleaned and anti fouled and the hull polished. Needless to say Ray found this a nail biting time but the marina did an excellent job and she looked like new when she was put back in the water. We are now waiting until the weather is more settled at the end of March to set off on our journey again. We are hoping to head for the Balearics where we are due to meet John, Alex and Peter in May. At the beginning of June we should start heading east, and will probably sail along the south coast of France and on towards Italy, taking in Corsica and then Sardinia. A lot will depend on the weather but we will be meeting Paul, Jackie and the children at the beginning of August in either France or Italy.

The weather has been very mixed since we returned with some lovely warm sunny days when the shorts have come out, but at the time of writing we are sitting out the third day of a gale, which today has reached 50-knot winds. We walked along to the beach to look at the sea, which was just a boiling mass of white water with huge waves crashing onto the beach and over the breakwater. The storm started on Wednesday with a terrific thunderstorm and torrential rain but this was the first rain since December 2nd so I think the locals were glad of it.

Our social life is still very hectic and we have now joined in a games night at one of the local bars where one can play cards, board games, dominoes, crib etc. We have taken up playing canasta again which we played regularly some 20 years ago, we had forgotten how much we enjoyed playing. We also had a really good St Valentine Day dance, which was well attended by people of all nationalities. We also continue attending Quiz nights and have ended up on 2 occasions having to devise and present the quiz, which is not as easy as it seems. I continue to attend Spanish lessons twice a week and have just joined a gym at one of the local hotels for one month. This also has a lovely heated indoor pool and offers aquarobics 3 times a week so this might help keep the weight down. Ray has started attending a pool night and has won twice; he obviously had a mis spent youth.

The only problem we have had since returning is that Ray has had to have some dental work carried out which has been very painful as it included root canal work and the capping of a tooth. Fortunately we were recommended a very good dentist who speaks English. After some 4 visits the next one should be the last?

The early problem with the 220v AC generator has still to be resolved. A local (English) mechanic is working on the problem in conjunction with GenACis back in the UK but at the time of this report the outcome is still unknown. What we do know is that Fox’s in Ipswich, who did this and other work to Stratagem charged an awful lot of money for some very shoddy workmanship! (John Bradley, please note).

That is about all for now although we will get back into sending more regular reports once we get going on the next part of our journey.

Our best regards to you all - and we would welcome any notes of what is going on at your end to keep us in contact with friends back home.

Ray and Sandra

Stratagem
Almerimar
Spain